ICM T-34/76 Early 1943

[Armor_Buff]

Track Day!

As previously mentioned I didn’t like the rubber band style tracks ICM provided so went with Ryefield Model’s 3D printed T-34 track.

Shipping must have been very rough as about half of the flat links were already sheared off etc.

RFM has a half pin (red arrow) for each side of the track link. While the pins aren’t as brittle as the track link 3D resin, I wasn’t overly impressed with their strength. Tested found the half pin set up fiddly plus the pin isn’t a secure fit and easily falls out. So each half pin needs glued in place.

Thanks, but No Thanks, half pins

Rolled out the 28 gage beading wire, set up a length jig (blue) started chopping out wire pins for Fruilmodel style assembly

With clean up, pin chopping, putting slight bend in wire to secure in the link, one 72 link run took 1.5 hours to assemble. Very little clean up required.

A small amount of clear PVA glue was applied with a tooth pick to ensure the wire won’t fall out.

The detail on these links is fantastic!

The completed run articulates more freely than prior sets of Fruilmodel T-34 track links, I’ve assembled. The Fruilmodel links required 4x as long due to excessive parts clean up and reaming the 90% of the links in order for the track pin wire to fit.

Favorably impressed with the Ryefield Model’s 3D printed T-34 track links. I would happily buy again. A++

[ignoramusRex]

@Armor_Buff I don’t know if they need less cleanup as the layers are very visible on the guide horns and should probably send them to smooth them. While the detail is better they are far more frail than Friul tracks, and I always manage to break pins in 3d printed tracks while handling or dropping

I don’t think the kit build OOP warrants replacement tracks as the kit itself has bad details (not just grills) but if they make you happy glad you replaced them.

[Armor_Buff]

@ignoramusRex , thanks for commenting!

Verbose thoughts follow but the morning coffee was good…and I had three cups

Cheers

Item #1)

@ignoramusRex

I don’t know if they need less cleanup as the layers are very visible on the guide horns and should probably send them to smooth them.

Please show me the layer mark issue. With x6 magnification, I think with a coat of Mr Surfacer this surface should be OK.

It’s easily sand the teeth if desired, trapped and braced w/sanding stick.

I assembled ten sets of Fruilmodel’s over the last few years. All required significantly more clean up than the RFM T-34 links based on total assembly time and effort.

Fruilmodel’s needed flash removal, mold tags removed, mandatory reaming with drill bit, bending track links back into shape and drilling out flashed over holes for nearly every link. Practically every link had a couple of issues.

Fruilmodel’s quality control became so incredibly poor for several years, the original owner returned to do doing everything himself. He stopped reseller distribution becoming direct order only around ~2020 or so. The sets I ordered directly from Fruilmodel/owner were much improved in quality condition. However, they still required significantly more clean up effort than 3D RFM (T-34 or Pz IV) links.

With ~30+ sets Fruilmodel’s stashed, I find their products generally disappointing compared to most other manufacturers of white metal tracks like Sector35, R-Model & Master Club. Fruilmodel’s products required more clean up than their competitor’s product, in my experience.

Haven’t purchased Fruilmodel’s since the business sold to the new owner and Fruilmodel returned to mass distribution. I’d buy Fruilmodel products again if I couldn’t find a suitable alternative.

I like the option of using burnishing fluid/Blacken-It/Casey Smith on the metal links and sanding to exposed metal. That’s the major plus of white metal tracks in my experience.

YMMV

Item #2)

While the detail is better they are far more frail than Friul tracks, and I always manage to break pins in 3d printed tracks while handling or dropping

With the beading wire pins they are sturdier than with the 3D pins. Assembly with wire pins was faster and far less fiddly. If I break something installing will definitely mention it.

Item #3)

I don’t think the kit build OOP warrants replacement tracks as the kit itself has bad details (not just grills) but if they make you happy glad you replaced them.

My Italeri Panther build has in excess of 80% of the sucky Italeri Panther parts replaced. Paid $1 for a raffle ticket to win kit. Spent $200+ on aftermarket love plus scratch detail work on the little pig

…but it’s been a fun build.

[SSGToms]

And THAT’S how you build a model.

[ignoramusRex]

@Armor_Buff

Please show me the layer mark issue. With x6 magnification, I think with a coat of Mr Surfacer this surface should be OK.

Mine sample magnified 2x and with a coat or two of AK primer .Your example does look better

[Armor_Buff]

Finished track assembly, painted tracks, added basic weathering & installed tracks. The wire pins were reliable without issues.

Tweaks for tow cables, headlight & antenna remain, flat coat etc. Decided to skip the decals due to the heavily worn white wash. The tweaks can be wrapped on the road but the flat coat will wait until I’m back home due to being a devout fan of Pactra Acrylic Flat A48.

[Armor_Buff]

Thanks to the food dehydrator, today was able to do oil washes and drybrushing for the ICM T-34.

This is as far as the T-34 can go until I’m back in my regular workshop. Other than flat coat, antenna & display base this one almost complete.

Hopefully, with better 5K/6K lighting at home the pictures will improve as the flickering old fluorescent lighting isn’t bright enough for decent pictures.

[SSGToms]

Wade, you really knocked this one outta the park, especially for an on-the-road, [mostly] OOB build. It looks most excellent. You’re really kicking ass with that food dehydrator! I’m glad it’s working so well for you. It’s an interesting and unique method I haven’t heard of before. From the results, it definitely really works! I still put mine aside and leave them overnight to dry - I love the smell of Turpenoid in the morning!

[Armor_Buff]

Matt, thank you! I really enjoyed the ICM T-34 kit the most of the four that have been on the workbench in the last few weeks. It’s definitely not the best kit but just the right amount of crude to be inspiring instead of a headache!

This may sound “silly” for me it’s all about that out of favor these days technique - drybrushing.

The modeling experts place oil paint on card board to remove excess linseed oil so the paint dries quicker but I like my Winsor Newton’s exactly as WN mixes them!

I’ve tried cardboard but the oil paint doesn’t dry brush to suit me. My DB results are heavier, harsher less controlled if the linseed oil is reduced or at least it seems that way to me. I learned to DB in the Jurassic era without reducing the linseed oil, using very little oil paint and scrub-brushing. If oil paint has been on the cardboard, it just doesn’t behave exactly the same.

Drybrushing usually takes longer to cure with all the linseed oil. The dehydrator set at 104 F accelerates drying and so far hasn’t caused any issues. It also sped up the oil wash dry time.

In time, I’ll probably expand to trying to cure base coat & color coats a bit faster etc.

[SSGToms]

I’m with you on this one Wade, I’ve been drybrushing for 40 years, even when it went out of fashion. I did tone it down a bit though. I agree with you that I like my W&N wet, so it drybrushes smoothly and doesn’t build up on edges. I’ll go at it hard and heavy and give it a day or two to dry. It seems that lately drybrushing is starting to make a comeback. I’m seeing it more and more on the contest tables. Perhaps, like all other fashion, it’s back in vogue again. My 12 year old grandaughter is a fashion diva and she’s wearing bell bottoms, vests, and big 70’s sunglasses. Go figure.
The dehydrator sounds like the bee’s knees. I’m sure if it works on oils, it will work on base and color coats. You’ve definitely got something there.

[Armor_Buff]

Thank you, Matt. Sounds like your granddaughter has great fashion instincts!

Some 70’s fashions and music has all sort of enduring appeal!

I agree dry brushing can get out of control sometimes and that’s not what we want.

Took inspiration from a tile base you posted a while back and intend to try one.

Hex tile, outlined the edges with permanent black marker and glued felt to underside to prevent table top scuffs.

Naturally, the ICM T-34 will be the test project.

Have to flat coat, order a name plate and a few other things etc.

[Armor_Buff]

Calling the ICM T-34/76 Early 1943 wrapped.

The medal, I believe is a replica of The Order of the Patriotic War (Russian: Орден Отечественной войны, romanized: Orden Otechestvennoy voiny).

[Barney]

Very nicely done.