Hasagawa and Tamiya make this in 1/350. Is there a preference as to the more detailed kit?
Both the Hasegawa and Tamiya kits are excellent. The Hasegawa is reputed to be slightly under scale, but not by all that much - and the proportions are still correct. If I were to have a recommendation it would be Tamiya. I’m working on the Tamiya Kagero at the moment, which is made from the same molds (with some minor mods) as their Yukikaze. That kit is a real pleasure to work on, but really, either way you can’t go wrong! 
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They’re both great kits and well detailed for their age. I originally purchased both to compare them and went with the Tamiya for no other reason than a preference for the Tamiya plastic. If detail is your interest you’ll probably end up going down the aftermarket rabbit hole and the selection for either kit is huge and growing all the time. The sky (and your wallet) is the limit.
If you haven’t read through @TimReynaga 's Kagero build, do, it will give you a very good feel for the quality of the mold and how well the kits are supported by the aftermarket.
Good luck with the IJN’s “Luckiest ship of WW2”.
Cheers,
Colin
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Thank you for your Insite.
So I bought the 1040 version of Hasagawa’s Yukikaze. I also bought Eduards PE set to go along with it. I liked the odd 3 turret arrangement. I am courious how you attach the PE without any glue/cement showing. As an example of what I am saying are the railings on the turret sides and on the hull. Your glue skills are amazing and was curious as to your technique.
So I bought the 1040 version of Hasagawa’s Yukikaze. I also bought Eduards PE set to go along with it. I liked the odd 3 turret arrangement. I am courious how you attach the PE without any glue/cement showing. As an example of what I am saying are the railings on the turret sides and on the hull. Your glue skills are amazing and was curious as to your technique.
Thanks Greg! Attaching brass to plastic can be a challenge, but I’ve settled on a couple of simple methods. First, fixing unpainted brass to unpainted plastic:
After bending the brass bits to the correct shapes to fit the plastic parts, I set the brass in place and use my smallest paintbrush to apply tiny dabs of liquid plastic cement to the contact points. This softens the plastic just enough for it to lightly grab the metal parts. After drying the points can be reinforced with cyanoacrylate, but I actually like the weak bonds as they are strong enough to hold the pieces together but will break apart if bumped without distorting the delicate brass.
To attach pre-painted brass to painted surfaces, I use polyvinyl acetate (PVA, or white glue such as Elmer’s) lightly applied to the joins with a small brush. This type of glue also makes weak plastic/brass bonds, but it dries flat, doesn’t yellow, and holds up well (my USCG Taney here was completed 25 years ago and everything is still holding together just fine!)
There are other ways of getting these jobs done, but these work well for me. Good luck with your Yukikaze! 
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