International Paystar 6x6 1/25

I have gotten back to work on the Paystar, specifically, the bed:

For whatever, beds for trucks are not easy for me to build - getting them centered specifically, but here we are, not bad. This bed has a lot going on - there’s a multiple part ramp in the back, openings for wood decking, side rails, and ribbing below -

Unhappily it’s hard to see here, but I have snapped off, and removed portions of the wood decking - take my word for it, it’s there :smile:, or should I say, not there!

You can see a bit more of the transfer case and its brackets and lines, and the ribbing under the deck - and…one set of tires is still not sitting level…??? why not?? well, I guess I’ll get after that. That set of tires has been a steady source of grief - lesson learned: Like it or not, don’t trust some kit parts, and make your own - walking beam and suspension in this case.

This ramp was a challenge to build, as it essentially floats off the bed (as in with styrene, well, we can’t bolt or weld things together! :sweat:) so keeping it level and glued in place was no fun! I added the folding ramps once the “attached part” was actually attached to the bed. These pictures don’t quite reflect the amount of styrene that’s back there - it’s a lot!

OK, on we go

Cheers
Nick

6 Likes

Hello model builders,

I ran out of patience, so spent a couple of days getting the truck painted and weathered. You’ll see I painted the cab to match a prototype pic - and I must say, I was surprised that I managed to get the narrow stripes to work as hoped :smiley: But, we’ll start with the engine and rear end:

I don’t usually take pics of individual parts/elements like this, but they turned out pretty well - it’s too bad that today is overcast, so I don’t have much bright light (my place has really big skylights) so these still look a bit dark…

I added some stripes, and plenty of rust to the cab:

And with some effort, got it to sit flat on all ten tires!

Back to the cab:

I’m a bit shocked to see that the stripes worked out as nicely as they did. The rust pattern is based on photos of a rotted out old version of this truck. And please note, the cab and body parts are dryfit, so a bit out of alignment, but considering how much I cut our and reworked, so far so good!

Which leaves the bed. This received a lot of paint and pigment - and still looks relatively clean, so to speak:

Because of the relatively low lighting, the black bed shows no, or little detail, so I’m looking forward to taking this outside for some pictures with bright sunlight!

Thanks for having a look -

Cheers
Nick

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Looking great. I like the colors and weathering.

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Looking good and realistic

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Well guys, time to call this truck build done.

I’m very pleased with how the models and final photos turned out, so please take a look:

And finally, this small collection of pictures, taken the day before, but in shade (and with the cab seated incorrectly), and some interesting colors. I don’t use filters on any images, and yet, the color saturation is pretty cool:

Now, on to build something else!

Thanks for having a look,

Cheers
Nick

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Another beauty Nick. :+1::+1:

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Stunning as usual Nick! :camera: :star_struck::+1:

—mike

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Between you and TIKing, best truck models ever.

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Looks amazing Nick, especially with those backgrounds!

cheers
Michael

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I didn’t realise you had shots of the real things all along, in comparison I reckon your models will need a lot more work before you take photos of those…

Seriously, what the guys have said already with cherries on top, a truly magnificent result. I’d be interested to know the behind-the-scenes photography story, y’know like how many glamourous assistants did you have etc. but mainly how much sorcery did you use to blend foregrounds with backgrounds? The shadows indicate around midday, & I remember you mentioned about a previous shoot you had passers-by to contend with, here did you establish a half-mile exclusion cordon?

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Hello gents - thanks very much - glad it is passing the collective “eye test”! :smiley:

@Dioramartin, hi Tim, yes, there are indeed as many hassles/challenges as opportunities when taking outdoor pictures in an urban area!

Happily I have developed a better understanding of my software, so I’ve been able to overcome some of the problems that drove me nuts before - attack of the 50’ woman??? Yes! real scale people, dogs, bike riders, signs you name it and it has cluttered my background :man_facepalming: more on solving problem that in a few minutes.

First, yes, time of the day is important for crisp colors, and “useful” shades and shadows. This has taken me a several attempts to now understand. The ideal time for me to take pictures is generally between 10:30 and noon, as the sun isn’t in either extreme, rising or setting. If I want a more moody or unique shot I’ll use the times outside of my preferred ranges.

As for steps, here you go. The only overarching rules have to do with practice, patience and discipline.

First up, I take a lot of pictures, with the best being from my old Iphone 6s. I also have model 12, but it tends to focus very sharply on the foreground, and the middle- and background usually gets out of focus. I take a lot of pictures:

From these I pick and resize a few, like this:

As you can see, it’s a nice enough image, (and I apparently don’t know my left from right! :smile:) but, as I enjoy doing this, I keep going, and use some free software called PhotoScape Pro X, to make a cutout:

This process is not automatic, and instead can be very slow going. You are given three options for removing backgrounds (the blue box in upper right of image): Magic Erase, Lasso, and Brush. It took me a long time to learn how to use each option most effectively.

Magic erase is great for removing things that have uniform colors (the sky, colored walls, streets etc), but you need to be careful when you use this, so you don’t accidentally remove part of your image you want to keep. Happily, there is an “undo” feature. With practice, I’ve been able to estimate where this might happen on a photo and avoid the problem.

The Lasso feature lets you push a little cursor around things you want to remove. It’s interesting because when you drag it in one direction, the cursor is free-form, but in the other it will cut a straight line, which is very useful.

I don’t use the paint brush as much anymore. It is actually an eraser with variable size heads, which was ideal when I started doing this. But, with this tool it is hard to make uniform lines.

Happily, the software lets you zoom in on your photo, and you can select a colored background for areas you have removed which is very helpful, especially on complicated objects, like models. It’s hard to believe how many small cracks of light from behind can creep through. The example I picked is actually pretty straight forward, but the side views of the the drill rig were complicated.

When this is done you have this:

I don’t ever manipulate the photo of the object - that is no light adjustments, screens, filters etc - this is simply a photo cutout of the original object.

Next, I pick a background I think might work. I have come to keep lots of these, urban rural, natural, etc - and I copy images I see when I think they might eventually be useful:

Now the process gets really tricky :smile:

Drag the picture and background into…Powerpoint. Yep, just Powerpoint:

And using Powerpoint, you layout as you see fit. I know lots of people gripe about PPT, but I use it all the time for everything from this to site plans - :smile:

I learned of the versatility of PPT because I worked for a giant company for a long time - and as I became a studio leader, it was concluded (by others) that I didn’t need advanced graphic software…perfect eh? So my designers all had the tools and skills to do work that blows my mediocre efforts out of the water - which was great for our clients, but not so great for me, and as such, well, a guy learned how to really use PPT, and I still do!

The result of this PPT effort:

As you can see in the post above, this is not the best final image, but it is good for illustrating the process. I have come to really enjoy taking the final pics, and locating them in the environment I think looks right!

Scale, light/shadow directions, quality of the background photo, vantage and vanishing point of the background means that while it’s easy to drag the pictures together, but less easy to get the two to work together in a convincing way.

So, maybe a bit windy, but that is how I make these images -

Hope it’s helpful

Cheers
Nick

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And here I thought because of your skill you just built many of the backgrounds. :man_shrugging:

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Seeing is disbelieving alright! Fascinating process, far more involved than I’d imagined. Despite the technical aids it still needs the subject & background to match so I get why you have to use both taken when the sun’s high, it would be way trickier to match longer shadows. Thanks for blowing what was left of my mind again :exploding_head:

Like Ryan I too thought most of the foreground/background in that last pic (3 rt ft) bar the furthest building was all your own handiwork, nevertheless somehow I just can’t feel disappointed :wink:

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Late to the thread… but I am so stealing this. Eyecrometer! Love it!

(And the build work is outstanding, too! LOL!)

Thanks for sharing!

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Fantastic!!:heart_eyes: