OK this discussion has opened a sore spot for me. I want to do a good thin zim. What putty works best, longer dry time and do you mix with a thinning solution? Is there a mix ratio?
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Greg,
My favorite method is to take a bottle of Testor’s Liquid Cement that’s about 2/3 empty and add either Molak Stucco Putty or Tamiya Basic Gray putty. I’ll add putty until the mixture about as thick as well mixed Tamiya paint. This mixture can be lightly brushed over a small surface area ~ 1 inch square. Let it skim over slightly. Be in a well ventilated area of course.
Next, I like to use the Tamiya zimmerit tools in #1 hobby handle to texture by raking across. Every 3mm or 4mm so slightly shift position.
This method will allow applications that are basically scale thickness. I can’t find my sample of real zimmerit or we’d scale it out.
If one doesn’t like the results, one can light apply Testor’s Liquid Cement and level the putty with a paint brush and redo. That will work once. Otherwise, let dry and sand or scrap off then redo. Practice on an old model or sheet styrene until proficient before trying on model.
I’ll do some fresh samples and post additional pictures step by step later.
BTW -
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One cool thing about the putty zimmerit is it can be reactivated with liquid cement. This allows pressing small details flush into thin zimmerit for a snug factory look.
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Mr Color Leveling Thinner with Tamiya Basic Gray Putty should also work very similar. I’ve not tried that mix yet but plan too.
The ATAK zimmerit kits are a good option too sometimes if available for the kit.
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That is probably the nicest 1/35 Zim I’ve seen mate. Superb stuff.
I like the idea of moving away from putting sheets and balls of green putty on the model and rolling them flat as I think no matter how thin you roll it, its still going to be out of scale, and then you push it too far and it just comes away. Thinking about it critically, you’re always going to be able to get a thinner layer using a more liquid application and not having to roll it and mess around with talcum powder and all that mess is a major plus. Painting it on, letting it dry and then reactivating with liquid cement and putting in the details/indentations conceptually sounds like the smart option.
I’ve got an Border Pz IV ausf H upstairs in the stash and I will try this method and let you know how I get on. If it comes out half as good as yours I’ll be chuffed to bits.
Thinking about it, it might be smarter to practice first on a shelf queen…
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Chris, yes definitely a good idea to practice before. It can be mix and test for the ideal Liquid Cement to putty ratio at first.
Reactivation is handy. In my opinion, it gives TLC & Molak/Tamiya putty the edge over rolled epoxy putty. I used to really like Milliput Superfine for thin epoxy putty zimmerit with screw driver.
This open area was filled and leveled with thinned Molak Stucco putty. Took a few applications to build thickness equal to the Cavalier Zimmerit sheet zimmerit which is pretty thin.
First the grid was made with the back edge of #11 blade and straight edge. Each block was dampened with a little Testor’s Liquid Cement and allow to sit briefly. Then the Tamiya zimmerit tools used for texture.
It’s little slow reactivating block by block on a grid zimmerit but it does allow a lot of control.
I’m happy with the zimmerit patch. I think at worst it will look like a field work shop repair.
Thank you, for the kind comments on the old Tamiya IV J’s Zimmerit.
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Busy day, little bench time.
Not impressed with kit exhaust. It isn’t round, the end has a slight short shot and the shape isn’t regular.
My attempt at a replacement pipe proved equally terrible.
Maybe tomorrow with a 1/8 inch brake line bender and ~3/16 brass or aluminum tube a new exhaust pipe can be bent.
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Wade your brass replacement pipe looks great - a little filing on the end to smooth it off and I would be happy with it.
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Matt, thank you. I think you’re right more clean up would help. Sadly, it’s a little thin in diameter at just over ~2 mm.
Trip to Hobby Lobby for 3/32 aluminum tube. About ~2.4 mm closer to the kit part diameter.
The brass distorted more at the top and bottom of the bend than the softer aluminum. Applied a coat of thinned Molak as base for rust texture and to help hide nicks etc.
Ended up with this after several tries. Still needs a little sanding etc.
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The top pipe is the second one. It still needs sanded. The bottom one needs the poppet valve/flap added to finish.
Poppet valve? I’m not sure what to call it but there was something inside the exhaust pipe on at least some early Panther D’s. It isn’t obvious.
This picture for discussion only from Panzer Tracks #5-1 on the Panther D may hint at it.
I can’t tell if it’s just lines in the picture or there. Per line drawing in the work its an open exhaust tip. However, Achtung Panzer #4 Panther shows hints at the valve in their line drawing.
OH NO! Reference conflict!
Should we call in the Panzer Police for this urgent emergency!?!?
The Panzer Police are poised and well equipped to endless argue the finer points of the dilemma. They are like…Diamond Dogs
The Panzer Police are poachers and they hide behind trees
Hunt you to the ground they will, mannequins with kill appeal
I keep a friend serene
…with apologies to the great David Bowie…I probably don’t need any more coffe this morning…
(Wink)
No Panzerkampfwagen kops, we’re going full NSA and skipping amateur hour.
This magnificent books stands on the shoulders of the giants Jentz & Doyle expanding their outstanding research in its own right. Laser beam focused on diving deeper.
Not just suggested, clearly proven and documented.
The above pictures and diagram from the book and only for discussion purposes. Note the book uses a newer Panzer Tracks line drawing. The three high quality sources agree in my view👍
I know not so fast Wade, that shows the command version Panther D had poppets that does not PROVE the regular early Panther D had poppets.
Fair enough.
I’m happy if my added poppet detail ends up proven wrong in time for regular early Panther D’s. I did as much due diligence as my time allowed and will just call it artistic license if it ends up being wrong.
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No Wade, you’re right, those are on Panther D’s. They are stiffeners to prevent the pipe end from being crimped off in battle, which would cause catastrophic backpressure in the engine.
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Matt, thank you! That makes perfect sense!
I’ve found an aftermarket supplier, FC Model Trend of Panther exhaust and if they’ll EVER process my registration, I’ll order an excellent set of their Panther exhaust pipes. They have the stiffer.
I’ve been away from the Panther build but iton my mind. Ordered some ATAK Panther & Tiger zimmerit Package full of zimmerit sheets from ATAK arrived today! I like ATAK and I think they make an excellent product.
Dragon Panther D - Very disappointed in this one. I thought we’d have something a little more impressive than sheets heavy liquid cement texture. Totally my fault for not checking deeper and ordering it.
Dragon Panther A - slightly disappointed in this one. I thought we’d have a bit crisper squares.
Ryefield Model Panther G - sharp & crisp, looks great! Meets expectations!
Overall, happy with the ATAK Panther products… 2 out 3 ain’t bad…
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Benched the Italeri Panther build while I focused on a vintage 1970 era Tamiya Tiger 1 build. That missing part of the engine deck proved very trouble some to over come due to difficulties in finding suitable parts for the three round fixtures at the rear of the engine deck.
After ~ two dozen fails, I needed to work on something else like the Tiger build. The Tiger build generated a lot of scrap PE, those parts combined with the same scrap PE from another Tiger 1 build using the same PE set prompted a fresh approach.
First picture, Panther and sorted punched styrene discs, none of which cut cleanly. Second picture On the Mark PeE for Nahverteidigungswaffe (literally “close-in defence weapon”) that didn’t etch properly. Holes filled with CA. Third picture laminated detail made from defective PE parts, putty & styrene disc. Fourth picture defective parts before being laminated.
Similar process to make right side detail plus a spare Tiger fighting compartment fan housing cover modified into a Panther hatch cover.
Assembled
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Last night, I binge watched the full restoration series done by Aus Armor on their static display Jagdpanther and it just gave me the most intense craving to build the Ryyefield Jagdpanther G2 I have in my stash.
But I have so many unfinished kits that I need to complete. 
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^^^ Reynier that one? Wow!
I had ti re-watch some sections. Amazing work!
My wife and I watched yesterday evening! She was a loss for words asking why would anyone do that all of that work and how could their possibly be a market 
The look on her face when I pointed out they were using a copy of Jentz & Doyle’s Panzertracks just like modelers do was priceless 
Go for it we need another JagdPanther build!!!
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Yep, that’s exactly the one. The vehicle looks amazing, even though more than half of it is not original but leave it to them to actually put a ton of work to make the vehicle as close to original as possible.
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Reynier,
Obviously you have never heard of Advanced Modeler’s Rule #429 - If you can fit a WIP back into the kit box and close it, and slip it back into the stash, then you may pull another kit out and it does not count.
You’re covered buddy!
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So where are your travels taking you this time Wade?
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Reynier, Matt is correct AMR - #429 is very helpful!
It works just like Hyper-Sleep in Sci-Fi movies!
- Place everything in the original box. This should include dedicated aftermarket for best long term deep sleep.
- Put on the lid.
My Italeri Panther was successfully “unstarted” for the trip…wink
Here’s #35216 Tamiya early Tiger 1, the unstart condition occurs the instant the lid goes on. This kit was ‘unstarted’ decades ago and remained in such condition, I completely forgot about and haven’t considered it a started kit since…hell I have no idea when…until I removed the box top to check roof details a few weeks ago. (J/K)
Time tested rule AMR #429 is modeler approved.
Matt, I’m down South in the Tar Heel state to visit mom for a bit. Hopefully, will get to visit my old model club the IPMS/Gaston County Model Builders for their monthly meeting while in town
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Hobby Wizards, I need an official IPMS grade ruling that will hold up if the Supreme Court ever questions the status of my workshop(s).
Calling this the Hobby Workshop - Southern Expansion. I believe it’s qualified based the following criteria:
- The mini-stash.
- Dedicated tools set w/visor
- Workable work space for model build meets the 12 inch × 12 inch/144 square inch requirements.
Verdict(s)?
Any way panzer production at scale Krupp-Thyssen-Buff will be slightly delayed as the CEO’s mom insisted she wants to go out to lunch for Chinese food
Stay tuned…
Sadly the Panzer Workshop crew had to hold down the fort back home doing security details.
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Suddenly I don’t feel quite so bad with all my half started/completed stash(!)
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