OK, so I will play dumb for someone’s benefit. I have decanted paint before and just put it through my airbrush without “degassing” When you spray it from a can, it does not get degassed. Have I missed a valuable painting tip by not allowing the paint to degas?
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Personally I think spraying it through an airbrush “degasses” it. (atomizes?) I’ve done it a few times straight from can to airbrush with no ill effects. It’s not a Burgundy 1984 Ladoix Prince Florent de Merode, for goddness’ sake.
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I just got my same M-Shorad Bradley in the mail yesterday. Looked in the box and there must be a million pieces.
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You got to remember, the kit is a 3-in-1 kit, so you can build two versions of the M-SHORAD (Stinger quad launcher or twin Hellfire missile launcher) along with a standard M2A4 with or without the BUSK ERA armor.
You will definitely end up with some spare parts. WOnder how hard would it be to plop the M-SHORAD system on a light vehicle, like a MATV?
Actually, the 3-in-1 aspect is that it comes with parts to build either an M2A3, M2A4, or the M-SHORAD versions (on an M2A3 chassis).
Well… Yeah! I was close enough. LMAO.
yeah . . good point . . .I forgot that. I just opened the box and saw a mass of parts.
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I’m pretty sure the Stinger launcher in the kit is more accurate than the 3D printed one, which was apparently based off the measurements obtained from a plastic kit. I based mine off a Ft. Sill visit and measurements taken from the actual vehicle. One of the mistakes in the 3D printed one is the square profile of the front of the launcher when it is in fact rectangular, and noticeably so.
To which of the above three versions can or can’t the BUSK (BRAT?) ERA be applied?
I get this impression from the instruction sheet
M2A3 (no BUSK/BRAT)
M2A4 (with BUSK/BRAT)
SHORAD with Hellfire
SHORAD with Stinger
Technically the BUSK can be applied to any of them. It depends on when and where you are depicting them. I don’t think any M2A4s have yet been sent to Syria, which is the only place BUSK has been applied operationally since we left Iraq. Also, the M2A3 is too late for Iraq w/the T161 tracks, but OK for Syria. BUSK has been used in training to show how to install it, but is usually not added stateside and only in combat situations. Additionally, the M-SHORAD is only a concept vehicle made by BAE and it has not been bought/fielded by the US military, so it has not had BUSK either.
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So if I want to depict an operational in service vehicle I have the choice between M2A3 with/without BUSK and M2A4 without. Makes 3 potentially finished models.
Versions not fielded
If I accept concept vehicles I can build two different M-SHORAD. Adds 2 models to the display cabinet, maybe 2 more if I hang BUSK on them.
I can add BUSK to the M2A4 as a what-if it got sent to an area where BUSK is presumed to be needed. Adds 1 potential finished model.
Summing up:
3 fielded (with unit markings)
2 + 2 concept / what-ifs (no unit markings, maybe a BAE info)
1 M2A4 with BUSK (if it gets sent somewhere BUSK-worthy) no unit markings (yet)
Potentially an 8-in-1?
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Yes, but under those conditions, most kits could be considered 3-in-1 or more with just marking options.
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That’s why I had to buy 2 Fujimi 1/72 Seakings, two sets of markings were just too dang attractive
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Didn’t someone in here say something about paint somewhere? 
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Wine was also mentioned …
All “conversations” tend to stray and wander, in this case from decanting to colour, to colour used on Bradleys, expensive wine, helicopters …
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I am still curious about the why’s for degassing and what happens if you don’t…
Everything I’ve ever seen or heard about degassing is about storage. Seems that if you decant and entire can of lacquer paint into a jar and screw the lid tight without allowing time for the paint to degas it can explode. I’ve degassed small amounts of Krylon and sprayed them through an airbrush with no problem whatsoever. But all the spray cans of Krylon that I’ve ever used are lacquer based and should only be thinned with lacquer thinner or Xylene but definitely not an acrylic based thinner or alcohol or water.
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Makes since.
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I wonder if its the propellant being temporarily suspended in the paint sitting in your bottle rather than being dispersed to atmosphere as it would be during regular rattle can use?
There seems to be a range of opinions/questions about de-gassing; “is it a real thing, does it matter if you leave the paint for 15 minutes or up to all day, can I ignore this question?”
Then there’s the question of thinning rattle can paint. I know there’s the old “ like milk” consistency, so I guess it depends on the paint used.
Interesting thread and I appreciate everyone’s comments and opinions.
ETA I decanted some Krylon this morning. Left it for 40 minutes and then blew a light coat over a model car ‘shell. Some spattering on the first pic but maybe I sprayed too soon.
Comments welcome as always.
