Abrams project is still not finished but I’m tired of it so decided to start new model. I started assembling the hull.
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Impression of the kit at this point?
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everything fits perfect, much better than abrams series from RFM (much less connection lines on parts, ex. wheels don’t have them at all and they need cleanup only in some places. The kit is 10/10 so far
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That was fast work. How’s the plastic? Any mold lines?
I will be glued to this build as my kit should arrive this week.
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By „connecting lines” I meant mold lines. Wheels almost don’t need any cleaning. Comparing this kit to other kits from rfm like tiger late, abrams or t-80 literally everything fits perfectly here and not all parts have mold lines
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@Mateusz
Just a heads up, the rear mudflaps are sometimes removed and stowed on the side of the turret like this:
Have a look around the 33 minute mark onwards.
In stage 23 of the instructions for assemblies A15 & A16 show some ice cleats mounted on the armour. Again in the video the wagons do not have them and I have not found a picture of an in-service 2A7V with them on there yet, so I have left them off.
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I have also just noticed that the wagons have the last side skirt panels folded upwards.
Too late for me, mine are already glued on.
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The ice cleats were only installed on the turret armour as upgrades to 2A6x variants … 2A7s have them relocated at the turrets rear wall now.
Here a 2A6A3 …
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Thanks for starting this thread, I have this kit also (RFM Leopard 2A7V), plus the RFM photo etch upgrade kit. I’m still working on the beginning stages of weathering the Meng Leopard 2A7. I’m sure some may wonder why I got the ‘not much different’ 2A7V also, but I want to have the most up to date modern tanks available. What did you find about the RFM tracks that Meng did better? Is it worth getting a set of aftermarket tracks?
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I won’t mention the Amusing Hobby Leopard 2A8… They are dropping like rain drops lately.
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Meng made tracks that don’t require glue which makes them easier to assamble (I don’t know how to describe it to be understandable but they just “move” smoother). RFM’s tracks are good enough, they are not bad at all meng just made them a little better. Honestly there is no need to buy aftermarkets since most of them cost astronomical prices.
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Understood, and thanks for the quick reply. I agree that aftermarket tracks, these days, have become outrageously pricey! Still, I’ll spend the $$$ (as my time and aggravation cost me more than cash) if there is a clearly superior solution 
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you assemble everything before painting? I prefer topaint before assembling my leopardparts (I intend to open some of my ukrainian 2a6 parts since the kit allow it).
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I assemble as much as possible, usually the entire tank, before painting anything. Model kits are engineered to be assembled unpainted. Pre-painting parts can lead to fit errors and parts gaps. Then there’s putty on top of paint, a situation you never want.
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I always assamble the whole model, I just leave parts like side skirts, wheels, tracks unglued and before painting I take them off. This is an example
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As Mateusz & Matt mentioned, in my experience it works best to assemble as much as possible before painting for all the same reasons.
I’ll brush paint or airbrush areas that are difficult to reach and paint after assemble if there’s a risk of exposed unpainted plastic being visible. For example where the screens go on the engine deck or a Panther or Tiger etc. I like to spray those areas black or red oxide from the under side and above before the PE screens are attached.
Otherwise, painting is done with the whole model build for the various subassemblies.
HTH
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I prefer to paint some because my airbrush can’t access everythign and I’ve already made the msitake of assembling parts to the point I can’t access them wit a brush
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I also assemble as much as possible and usually only leave off roadwheels and tracks when painting. I find if the airbrush can’t get into an area, and you can’t brush paint it, it won’t be seen anyways, so don’t worry about it.
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