It depends on what division the tank is from as many divisions made their own SOPs.
You should pick a unit that you want to model, look at photos and go with that example.
Correct. I seem to remember it being around ‘85 or so when we had to paint the sand background for the bumper codes. In 83/84 we had black codes onto base MERDC scheme.
Same here. When we got the M1s (1982) we painted all the markings in black on green. The sand backing was added later because the numbers were too hard to see.
If you have photos of a specific tank. go with that. But if you want to have some fun with the rear side skirts/fenders, build one side straight using the large no. 7 skirt and fender, and the other side bent out and torn or missing entirely.
Ken
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The longer mud flaps are the original style, that shipped with initial, “slick” 105mm M1s. They’re longer because of the full size #7 skirt. Units quickly hacked away at those #7s, or removed them altogether. Later, when the factory introduced a cut back french-curved #7, the shorter mud flaps started showing up with IPM1s and M1A1s. As always, look at the features of a specific tank if you can.
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It was 4ID. If you remember, they were the “Digital Division”.
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This thread got me thinking of pulling the trigger on an old school Tamiya M1 Abrams kit.
IF… I can find one.
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The Panda M1 is much better. More correct and better detailed. It still has a few issues, but a better starting point.
The biggest issue is the tracks. The outer part has the correct chevron pattern of T156 tracks, however, Panda molded the inner side of the tracks as T158 tracks. It can’t be both and should be the T156 tracks. Trumpeter makes a set of indi-link T156 tracks to replace them with.
Next, the barrel is too short by about 2mm forward of the bore evacuator. Right now there is no AM replacement barrel for it, but you can take the Def Model late M68 barrel (35015) for an M60A3, cut it off behind the bore evac, and swap the forward sections. You will also have to add the muzzle reference sensor on the new barrel.
Also, the road wheels are a little off in that they are M1A1 wheels that have thinner rubber parts. Vodnik has done 3D roadwheels of the correct type that are available on Shapeways. This is a minor issue though as most can’t tell the difference between them. I don’t plan on replacing them on mine.
Lastly, the left rear fuel filler cap is molded 90 degrees off from where it should be. This can be shaved off and repositioned (if done carefully) or replaced by an AM one.
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An IP, and I wish I could fine one of those Tamiya M-1 kits too
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My fake M1 IP, fake because it’s just a Tamiya M1 with a bustle rack. I’ve had this model for decades, this is the third rebuild of it. The CAT Shoot decals are very hard to source and they’re all wrong, this is a mish mash of at least three sets. One more antenna to add and maybe the red range flag laying on top
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Awesome thread!
But if I were to do an M1, which I have been wanting for some time, but can not get the Panda Models one, what would be the best option or base kit?
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We didn’t see rear bustle racks until M1-IPs were issued in 1987.
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Ooooof…D-22 outer sprocket and ring popped off. The driver, PFC Ross, smoking, was going way to fast. SSG Heith was pissed.
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Yes, this is just old fashioned camouflage netting, not barracuda.
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Right, that is what I was saying.
Was the over speed light on I wonder?
In 1AD We drew A1s the fall of '87 and we found the tracks too light for the heaver A1s. Crushed cooling tubes and thrown tracks were common.
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We had the M-1s that were the initial 100 production prototypes (XM-1). My tank serial number was 088. They didn’t have governers, and no overspeed light that I remember. I could easily get up to 55 mph on flat ground.
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Seen that happen too many times in the field; some cocky PFC drives too fast and shears the lugs off the drive sprocket. Ass chewings all around. 
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Cocky Private soliders? Surely not! Heaven forfend!
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I doubt Shirley had anything to do with it.
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