Missing poly caps in Border 1/35 Leopard 2A7V kit

Check your Border Model 1/35 Leopard 2A7V kits when you get them. Mine was missing the sprue with the vinyl poly caps for the wheels. They aren’t shown in the parts tree diagram in the instructions, but the assembly instruction steps for the wheels and drive sprockets do show them. I’ve sent an email to Border and hope they get back to me.

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The polycaps seem to be of similar size between most of the companies. Maybe try the polycaps off another brand.

I know they are the same ones from their earlier Leopard 2A5/2A6 (and the Ukrainian rebox) because the wheel and suspension sprues are from the earlier kit (the sprues still have the old kit number). Robbing them from another kit just then leaves that kit without them, so that’s not the best option.

I can get the sprue off of eBay so it isn’t a major problem. Just wanted to give a heads up to people who buy the kit that the parts may be missing.

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If you need new ones:


Already ordered. Thanks.

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Got my kit today, went over it and I’m missing the caps too… d*mn it! :expressionless:

To be honest, I have a very strong “dislike” for poly-caps.
My experience is that they give a sloppy fit and make it difficult to align the wheels.
I will use either of these methods:

  1. find some styrene tube that fits
  2. drill out some thick sprue to make short tubes,
  3. add shims to the axle stubs (A below)
  4. glue the wheels to the flat area around the axle stubs (B below)


I will not filter the whole stash looking for spare caps in other kits

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Polycaps were originally intended to make the models “roll”. I wonder whats their purpose in kit with movable suspension and individual or link-and-lenght tracks?

Possibly to make it slightly easier to paint the wheels after mounting them on the chassis.
I consider them to be a worthless or even negative gimmick.

Polycaps have been around close to 60 years. The first ones I remember were on the remote controlled Tamiya SU100. The. advantage of polycaps today is in taking the wheels on and off if you are trying to fit the track in a tight area. I know the poly capped wheel isn’t very tight but when placed on a flat surface they will sit level. I understand the issue of a slight left or right wobble but that is easily fixed. After installing the wheels and track for the final time, put some glue on the back of the roadwheel where the arm enters the wheel. Place the tank on a flat surface and press a small ruler or straight edge against the front of the roadwheel to insure it is aligned front to back with the other road wheels and let the glue dry.

Rotating drive sprockets are a big help when trying to feed the track over them, especially if the sprocket is a close fit under a fender. Also, as has been said, there are other advantages beyond just being able to “drive” your tank across the floor.

Regardless of the pros and cons, the kit is designed for them and the parts are supposed to be in the box. Forcing people to come up with alternate solutions to cover Border Models’ mistake isn’t the right answer. Border needs to have a process to get the missing parts, especially if it turns out to be a widespread problem in the kits so far released.

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