The biggest roadblock I have in armor modeling is weathering. I’m struggling to come up with realistic weathering techniques. Yes, I’ve had & read the Shep Paine books, but I want to take things a step further than oil washes and/or drybrushing.
Is there a comprehensive book on the market that goes over modern weathering techniques, with specific suggestions? Thanks!
Damon.
The most recent Fine Scale Modeller magazine is all about weathering techniques. I dunno how comprehensive or useful it would be to you but it’s a start.
NightShift as mentioned above is an outstandingly good source of information.
ColDemonPL - painting tow cables is also outstanding.
ColDemonPL has a lot of high quality content. He also has many models in the various AK how to books. In many cases he’ll mention several ways to do something. His how to weather wheels shows four different ways. Basically, I always disliked pigments until seeing how ColDemonPL uses them. His video helps one think a little differently but similar to NightShift’s etc.
ColDemon is more focused on AFV’s than NightShift. He also reviews books & references.
Of the new school weathering products, this is my favorite. A little goes a long way but it’s great for ground work and dirty suspensions etc.
You tube videos are your friend
its pretty good for building a foundational knowledge of weathering. I just picked it up. It covers the major types of weathering in a decent level of detail that is easy to follow.
Everybody is pointing out YouTube, but you specifically asked about books, and I for one will take a book over YouTube any day.
A good start would be looking at the many books offered by AK Interactive and Ammo by MiG. Most of the books have specific subject matter (i.e. covering specific vehicle types, nationalities or even specific weathering products like pigments), but all of them generally cover painting and weathering techniques much more so than building. The FAQ 2 and 3 books from AK could be a good place to start, although they are a few years old already. Yakumo by Ammo is another possibility.
Finally Mike Rinaldi’s Tank Art Volumes 1 - 4 and Single Vehicle books No. 01-04 are also quite good and comprehensive.
If you live in the UK you can get access to digital copies of Finescale Modeller via the Libby book reader app for free if you have a library card (also free 
).
+1 for Mike Rinaldi’s Tank Art 1 - 4 and the FAQ volumes. Lot’s of excellent information, demonstration, and execution. Great answers and a bunch of them.
In my experience the AK books are hit and miss. The photographs are good, the layout is good, but the text, in many cases, is lacking. I can deal with poor english translations (although I don’t understand how that can be in this day and age), but it’s the lack of detail, of clarity, that frustrates me. Too many times, I am still left with questions. I find this is more a problem with the smaller books. And they are all expensive. They have their place, and they, for the most part, have a wealth of information in them, so nit-picking aside, they have value - just look before you buy.
I read, I watch, I absorb bits and pieces, and I usually end up going, “hmm, that’s cool, but what happens if I do this?” Sometimes regret is what happens. But, most weathering “mishaps” are (usually) easily fixable…
I think a combination of videos and books - and of course help from the many excellent modelers on this site should give you more than enough good ideas or at least a starting point for you to choose which techniques and products work for you.
Try Steve Zaloga’s Osprey Modeling US Armor of World War 2 (Modelling Masterclass) or one of his other Modeling US Army . . . Osprey books. His articles in Military Modelling magazing were also good.
His technique is simple compared to the branded product-heavy schemes that are popular now but quite effective in creating a realistic model finish as opposed to showing how many layers of paint can be put on plastic before it looks like Tammy Faye Baker.
As for improving your weathering skills, all I can offer is to weather more models. Practicing on hulks only goes so far; you learn more from dealing with different situations of color and construction on complete models. At least, that’s what worked for me.
KL
One other source is construction sites. Take some photographs of the machines to use as references. Then comb through websites (like AK or VMS, to name two) for weathering products that are either usable or adapatable to your needs.
This is something I am most interested in. If I am working on models while in Ecuador, it can be hard to get purpose products while down there, as opposed to when I am in the US, which is significantly easier.
Thanks all, so far!
Damon.
The materials he uses are:
The first two items are hobby items, the rest art store/Michaels stuff.
He’s always trying new stuff, particularly paints for hand brushing, but I’m not as adventurous. I found a system that works to give me about 80%-85% of what I want to achieve. I want improve what I do, maybe get to 95% or 100% before changing variables or starting off in different directions.
KL
Here’s the scheme I use. It says American vehicles but I’ve used it on Russian/Soviet and with a slight modification on a three-color German. Somewhat formulaic, but I’m trying to remove variables so I can learn the other aspects.
KL
Painting American Tanks with Weathering
Add texture gel [Liquitex “Ceramic Stucco” (light) and “Blended Fiber” (heavy) are good] to hull and suspension before painting.
Paint suspension and lowers overall Khaki Drab XF-51.
Paint uppers overall: Scale OD (1/3 Dark Yellow XF-60 + 2/3 OD XF-62) or Faded OD (1/2 Dark Yellow XF-60 + ½ OD XF-62).
Vary color of uppers.
To give a dark finish airbrush under overhangs, underside of barrel, and high traffic areas with OD, then streak vertically with OD. Airbrush Faded OD in irregular patterns to horizontal surfaces; then narrow vertical streaks on vertical surfaces.
To give a lighter finish airbrush under overhangs, underside of barrel, and high traffic areas with Faded OD, then streak vertically with Faded OD. Airbrush Dark Yellow in irregular patterns to horizontal surfaces; then narrow vertical streaks on vertical surfaces.
Paint higher suspension areas with JSDF Brown XF-72. Carry onto bottom of uppers.
Spray irregular dust coat of Deck Tan XF-55 or Buff XF-57 on suspension high points. Carry onto bottom of uppers. Thin dust coats to prevent splatters.
Apply markings and detail paint.
Gloss clear coat or glaze with Khaki or Buff + Clear. Glaze is tinted clear.
Apply washes. An overall lighter wash replicates dust; 10 thinner + 4 Liquin + 1 color. Apply the wash over the entire tank to enhance detail and add weathering. Suspension washers should be darker and browner; 10 thinner + 2 Liquin + 1 color. Do not airbrush as and do not blot as the idea is to be irregular. Pin washes are good for lighter finishes and cleaner vehicles. Go easy with color - Use minimal amount.
Drybrush light color over dark washes, dark color over light washes.
Flat clear coat.
Apply gloss details, lenses, graphite wear.
Tamiya Paints: Add X-2 Clear to smooth finish.
Wash – Dyed solvent
Glaze – Dyed clear vehicle
Use glaze to mute brighter colors (Panzer, MERDC, and over markings. Try Khaki Drab XF-51 + Clear + solvent. Start very lightly.
Paint rubber tracks and tires dark earth color like rest of suspension then rub black pigment (crushed pastels) to show worn rubber.
KEEP LIGHT
The number of various “branded products” for weathering and terrain out there is most impressive. And they are great. For the most part. But they do come at a price. A few months ago I took the plunge into modeling pastes (Liquitex) and fibre pastes (Golden). I’ve added, sand, soil, leaves, ground up chalk pastels, acrylic paint, jute strands, twigs, and grasses to both of the above. It takes some trial and error, but you can get great results. They thin with water. A single jar lasts a long time too. And, of course, there are all the gel mediums avaiable for water effects. Highly recommended.
Seconded! I love Zaloga’s simple but very effective style. I adapted it sonewhat to my own needs, and find these results much more satisfying than the many layered products approach.
Others get great results with the many layers, oil mapping, pigments approach, but I can’t get it to work for me. And believe me, I tried.
