So I have a really nice razor saw but it can’t really get into those resin blocks where the block and the bulk of the part are wide and the space for the saw is thin. Or really thick parts that need to be removed from their block. Anyone have recommendations for a long thin razor saw that is still sturdy for this kind of use?
I use the UMM blades. I start the cut with a blade in the handle. I start the cut with a handled blade so that it is straight and true. I cut as far as the handle screw mechanism allows. Then, I use another blade freely. I just hold the blade and can cut through any depth of resin. I have rarely broken a blade held freely in my hand. Just take my time and it works for me.
A fret saw or coping saw with a fine blade might be what you are after.
What @petbat says!
The fret saw allows tighter curves and deeper cuts, the blades are usually thinner so
the fret saw is a better substitute for a razor saw.
The sawing action is done on the pull.
To get the best result a V-board should be used:
The workpiece rests on the V-board, the hand pulling the saw down is below the V-board.
The fret saw can also be used to remove parts with difficult gates from sprues
Yeah, that’s what I need! Thanks for the pointer to the V-board also.
Also works great for cutting out holes when opening hatches et.c.
There are several types and gauges of blades.
Sawing fast cen be tempting but it could melt the styrene and make the
blade stick so don’t stress the job. The blade can be inserted through
small holes. Sometimes it can be impossible to continue a cut in the
current direction if the workpiece hits the back end of the saw-bow.
In those case the blade can be reversed, teeth facing into the bow, and
the cut continued, sawing "backwards.
Do NOT try to use it like a normal saw, the bow will swing back and forth
making it very difficult to control the cutting direction and potentially
breaking the blade (they are thin …)
I’ve bought a set of PE ones from Amazon, that’s a Texas sized “not recommended purchase” way to flimsy and long and the blades have ‘memory’. I think I’ll look for a fret saw, I have a few others floating arpund from a hobby shop that are nice but the thin kerf on that fret saw has a lot of appeal to me.