@18bravo that’s some awesome work, that’s what I’m hoping i can achieve wants i get oil paints and not watercolors 
@Karl187 glad it’s not only happening to me
My recently finished Somalia M47, featuring the entire tank done in strictly artists oils, including the camouflage, tools, exhaust, etc. (no airbrushing whatsoever). Only the base coat green came from a rattle can. So yea, an entire 3D tank can be done in oil rendering only and be your canvas to do so. Just be sure the linseed oil is leeched from the oils on a piece of cardboard (about 3 hours or so), and you will get almost 3 days of oils to work with.
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Thank you! Not hard at all to do as some might think. Taking your time, blending the right hues, is pretty much all that needs to be done. And you OWN the control and exact application and location, not the airbrush.
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18bravo that’s what I like. Very light weathering. Neat work.
I’m new at 1/35 modelling and my route is the less is more.
FWIW I’ve used acrylics out of the tube to paint some kits. The trick for me is adding a “flow medium”. It makes the paint flow and settle better. I’ve used acrylics with flow medium both through an air brush and by paint brush.
Bruce
@Mead93 went back and worked on the drivers compartment here’s how it turned out.
Also went and worked on an eastern express T-34 that’s acting as my test dummy seeing as it will be knocked out in a future diorama.
On the T-34 I worked a lot of the lighter colors on the dark green base coat. I think I’m getting the hang of it. I practiced dot filters and streaking over the dot filter once completed.
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@BGT Bruce,
Speaking of brush painting, paint flow and leveling have you tried Mr Hobby’s Mr Color Levelling Thinner?
With compatible paints, the thinner is amazing. My first attempt using the Leveling Thinner and brush painting a gun barrel. Normally, I would never try to brush paint anything larger a tool handle.
Armo_buff all I’ve tried is tube artist acrylic. Everything else’s is Mig ammo.
Bruce
That looks much better I think you’re getting the hang of it now.
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Appreciate it @SSGToms used a few different techniques with putting down some thinner and not using thinner at all. Mixed results but i like it so far. Fun to have a model to practice on before really doing it on my next build
Yes, I agree- coming along very nicely.
Just takes time and experience. You can do this for years, decades even, and still learn new stuff and variations on things you thought you had already figured out.
If you’ve given something your best shot, be willing to accept less than perfect results, but learn from your efforts, and then apply those lessons to your next project. No matter how long you build models, you’ll never achieve a “perfect” result. There will always be room for improvement.
Get it as close as you can, then accept the results as completed. Move on to the next project. It will be better than the last one. Completed models are the intermediate goal, and to complete one, you have to be willing to tell yourself that it’s as good as it can get for now.
This is perhaps one of the hardest lessons of all for a new modeler to learn. Way too many neophyte modelers become discouraged and quit because they can’t get it perfect. They expect to be able to make their models “perfect” right out of the gate, and when they run into trouble, they throw up their hands and walk away from the hobby.
Understand that NONE of us ever get it perfect, to include the best modelers around. They’re as good as they are, though, because they keep striving for perfection, and they’re their own harshest critiques. Their work might look “perfect” to others, but to themselves, there’s always room for improvement.
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Hello Gregory, I want to point out that the oils in your pictures are Winsor & Newton Artisan oils. These oils are a bit different then your normal run of the mill oils…but in a good way. W&N Artisan oils are water mixable oils, I know it sounds odd. I’ve been using these for several year because they are water mixable and in some ways easier to use. This is most likely why you were successful with the water and q-tip. No matter you are doing a great job with them and I would suggest that continue using them.
Good Luck and looking forward to seeing more.
E
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@SdAufKla @Armored_Sprue @Karl187 I appreciate it guys. When I did the T-34 I’ve figured out that if i space out the dots the filter becomes a lot easier to mix up and doesn’t get as heavy. I’ve also learned that I can stream over the filter with different colors. I’ll admit trying it on a white base and a dark green base isn’t the easiest to jump into but i could be wrong. I like how this filter works over the ammo Mig one tho.
This photo of the Centurion Shot Kal (?)looks absolutely realistic!
SdAufKla said it well. I’ve been modeling for 50 years and still manage to stuff up thing occasionally. Being prepared to learn is the key.
I have a few favourite guys on YouTube that I follow. I wont name them but find someone who’s work you like and watch their tutorials. The guys I follow the most all have a different approach. One of those you find will suit your goals.
bruce
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@BGT yeah, I’ve been searching YouTube heavily and luckily I’ve found a few different videos that I’ve used. I think part of my problem was that spacing between dots and size of dots i used.
In case anyone finds this thread later. Just a few pointers/tips I found for the flat varnish.
Following @SSGToms excellent advice, I mixed up some of the future and flat base in a 30%/70% mix and started spraying…. And I got terrible frosting. Started to turn my test subject white. I thought, my flat base is old and probably concentrated, I must need more future. Long story short I mixed different ratios for the last few days and got real frustrated, it being able to get a good flat. Either I got too glossy or too flat and got frosting.
Now here is the interesting bit I found, in the end (no surprise here) the 30%/70% mix suggested by @SSGToms was perfect! I found spray distance and paint flow to be crucial! Too close/ too much flow and the mix gets a bit wet, drying somewhere between satin and flat. Too far and the mix dries in the air causing light frosting like icing sugar. Get the distance and flow right and you get a perfect flat.
Sorry for that long winded story. Just trying to help people not mix like I did for days. Stick to the 30/70 flat base to future and dial in the distance on scrap!
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Just to make sure everybody gets it right - that’s 70% Future, 30% Flat Base.
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Haha yes realized I forgot to make that clear, thanks again for the help, mix worked perfect once I got the technique down
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