Hi All, I have several Real Model resin kits to build and would like ideas on resin cutting. Looking through catalogs there are a couple mini power saws out there. Would any of what’s on the market be a good choice for cutting resin pieces from the pour blocks?
I did the cutting on my recent M813 with a hand saw but hopefully there are some powered options.
TIA
Denimo
I just use a saw attachment on my Dremel for the large blocks. For the smaller ones I use sprue cutters or nippers.
CMK and others make a sweet razor saw like this that’s very helpful with removing small parts in my experience.
Tamiya make a Razor Saw.
Quite handy for larger bits. They also make a Mini Razor Saw.
Wear a really good respirator (not a covid mask). The dust generated is bad for you.
Those resin blocks are a permanent problem. There isn’t any ideal way to remove them. Often a risk to broke the parts.
Thanks to all for replying. I’ll order a set of saw blades for the Dremel and maybe that Tamiya saw.
Yep, I wear a respirator, wet the blade (and use the spraybooth on bigger cuts).
Be careful with the rotary saw. Use a light touch so it doesn’t grab.
Roger that. Huge respect for the Dremel, especially if it has a saw blade fitted!
My opinion… the smaller the teeth the easier it is to control.
Olfa or Tamiya P-Cutter, use it to scribe against the part, produces a thin ‘swarf’ of resin, rather than dust.
Olfa P Cutter
Thereafter cut and sand wet & rinse the dust slurry frequently,
Thanks for that info. Any recommendations re those smaller-tooth blades?
Ive got the basic plug-in Dremel.
I’ve got some Stanley knife/box cutter type blades that look like a larger version of that knife.
Any use, you think? If not I’ll order one of those.
Thanks
Give it a go, but the ‘hook’ type Stanley blades are ‘V’ shaped, & the balde may wander or cut a V.
The Olfa/Tamiya blade is one-sided ’ │/ ’ shape.
I lay the blade on the Green part, cut the Grey pour block by gently pulling the Red blade along it, & it tends to remove the swarf from the pour block, leqaving less work to do on the actual part.
Hope this makes sense
It makes huge sense Jon. Thanks for the very helpful diagram.
I’ll order one.
Sorry for the delay. I tried a couple of thin diamond coated discs I had at the office. One had a smooth (no teeth) edge and the other had small teeth. Both worked equally well on the bottom of an old resin model in my stash. Being dental items I’d recommend against buying them due to cost. I found these on amazon and they might get the job done just as well.
Thanks BarnSlayer.
I’ll look at these.
Appreciate it.
Denimo
Got some on order along with a spring-loaded guard for the Dremel. On dust control, I’d thought that cutting resin would be best done in the spray booth that vents to atmosphere.
Would this with/without wet cutting be the way to go?
Wet cutting controls dust but it’s a mess. Unless there’s a lot of water you’re going to end up with a clump of dust mud obscuring your view of the area you want to cut.
The spray booth is a good idea but I’d still pair that with a respirator.
BTW, the dental discs I tested are made by Komet USA. Nice but too expensive for hobby use.
It’s best to cut close, but leave some block left to sand down. Remember, you can always sand the block away with various grits of sandpaper. You want the sandpaper with a plastic film backing…Wet Sanding sandpaper because regular DRY sandpaper disintegrates under water because it’s paper.
I wet sand in a basin filled with water while wearing a respirator and gloves. I use a razor saw to cut away the pour block and then wet sand to the surface of the piece. Wet Sanding sandpaper can sand down anything to the surface if you spend the time, patience, and care…sure beats making a cutting mistake using saws.
Use triangular wire snippers to snip away block remnants close to the piece and then wet sand off any remaining burrs.
