these thin plates were designed to detonate a shaped charge warhead like a Bazooka or PIAT round, there is no way they could stop something like a AP round from an anti tank gun.
The Model so far, the hull MG barrel still to paint, track still has stages of painting to do, but it’s nearly finished, it will sit in the models awaiting figures, Diorama groundwork base and it’s glass case.
I recently built the Dragon M3A1, that kit had a variety of spare parts left over to make the M3, M3A1 and the M3A2 (prototype that never saw action). So I’ll be retro converting the Tamiya M3A2 into an early M3 using the Dragon spare parts, also adding into the mix some resin GI heads by Hornet, some stowage by Black Dog and the PE from the Dragon kit spares. But not yet…
I read some useful advice on a ship modeling site. That was to simply build for your enjoyment; that few of us if any build for museums. At best, most of us will place our models in contests. Few will win any prizes. My building is done in my house, and I show my models to a few friends and family. Granted, I used some of them in my history classroom when I was teaching, but that was it.
For your own use and knowledge, have you ever watched the videos on Andy’s Hobby Headquarters? In his thread on building German Armor, he has a tutorial on weathering and scratching AFVs. I am not saying that you need it, only that it is a great source for ideas. I believe that you did an amazing job!
Just for the record the plates were initially designed to defeat the rounds from the Soviet Anti-Tank rifles, which were capable of penetrating the PzKw IIIs and IVs’ side armour. It probably goes without saying that they would also have a stand-off role in disrupting the jets from shaped charges too, but I just thought I’d mention it.
Yeah, I think we all ultimately build our models for the yellow recycle bin ;). I just pointed out errors in the build that are plastic model building basics and are easily fixed. If OP isn’t interested in advice, be my guest