Pimp My Miniatures from Poland has released polyurethane resin road wheels for 1/35 scale British Centurion tank with imitation damage to the "rubber" tires:
I don’t see the point in this release. If the wheels on the actual kit are plastic like the return rollers in the image then damaging them would be a simple task- a set of nippers and a rough sanding pad would do the trick or a rotary tool if you want a bit more damage. It would cost a lot less than buying a full resin set like this.
I would have to agree Karl. This probably will save some modelers time I guess?
There are guys out there who just have to have every available AM item on the market piled onto their kit. They don’t care if they could make it themselves or not - if it’s AM it goes on the build. These same guys also think that if you have every available AM item on your kit and you enter it in a contest, you automatically win an award no matter how low your AM skills are. Not true. I’ve seen some $200 builds piled with AM having open parts seams.
Yeah, I know what you mean. Each to their own and all that- and I guess as @metalhead85 mentioned- it would be a time saver. But resin doesn’t come cheap- nor does any AM item really for that matter!
Yes I guess it comes down to time or money. I may have a set of damaged T-62 wheels or something like that from MiG that I bought many years ago and I’m sure one day I’ll slap them on one of my projects. It is easy to do as you mentioned Karl, sharp hobby knife and some files or sandpaper and voila!
Come to think about it, when I look at battle damage to AFVs, I almost never consider damaged road wheels. I always think from the fenders on up.
It doesn’t take long to do road damage to wheels IMO, 1-2 minutes per wheel. I think it’s just part of modelling and putting ones own personal touches on it.
In real life it also doesn’t take long for road wheels to become damaged, especially in desert or cross country ventures.
Although it doesn’t say I think these may be for the AFV Club kit which aren’t plastic but rubber.
I think the damage is pretty well done on these wheels, and personally I doubt I would be able to get something as realistic as that in the center areas (edges are easier).
In any case, it is good to have options so you can decide if that’s for you or not. Not everyone has the same skills or time or will to spend detailing.
Also (and I totally agree on it being pointless money spinner as its easy to do yourself if you want damage to show) dont forget, not every single wheel station would show damage… more often than not, it would be one or 2 wheels that show lots of damage, and once it got to around 50% per wheel, we’d exchange them anyway …
Yes. A lot of people dislike the AFV rubber tires and have questioned their accuracy. Also, some of the previous resin replacements have been a little off.
But dear modelers! Is someone forcing you to buy this product? I would like to point out that everyone (probably) has free will and common sense… Do you want to do such things yourself? Do it yourself! But do not limit others, because not everyone can do such things or does not have time for such fun 
I forgot to add - the set is made for AFV models (replacing rubber elements), and it is a 3D printed set.
People were just voicing general opinions about it thats all. I am sure many will enjoy using them to save themselves time. And they do look realistic.
Yes- as @Johnnych01 said - I was just giving my $0.02 on the matter- if you want to make them and people want to buy them then so be it, good luck to buyer and seller!
@Littorio - If there is rubber in the kit instead of plastic then this makes a lot more sense- not something I would like to deal with in a tank roadwheel- much prefer traditional plastic.
@Johnnych01 - Thanks for that insight- I always wondered what the criteria was for changing the wheels- how much damage was too much etc.
One photograph can address several of these comments.
Firstly, I don’t do contests any more. Not in decades. So if I use aftermarket it’s because I don’t have the skills (PE) or the time to scratchbuild my own parts. On top of that, the footman loops on the Centurion have still not been done to my satisfaction, PE or otherwise. Speaking of pimps…
That said, these resin wheels look far better than the ones in my photo. I imagine I could, after hours and hours of putting in my own time, achieve that efftect, or not. Some of those cracks are pretty hard to do with a no. 11 blade. I’ve tried.
They might be a little pricey, but as it’s been pointed out, you don’t need to put them on every wheel station. You could probably do three or four kits with one set. And they look fantastic.
My only question is, how many different damaged wheels do you get? I see a repeat in the photo. I don’t want them all the same.
My time is more valuable to me than money. I can always make more money. According to my wife I’m doing so as I type this. But I can’t get back time. If I buy a set for any future Centurions I’ll be sure to post the results.
Funny I was just thinking when I saw this sites summary in my mail that this is a detail I don’t recall ever seeing on any of the fantastic builds I see posted here.
Well, my builds may not be fantastic, but now you’ve seen this detail on a Centurion build.
I’m pretty sure I learned how to add damage like that from the old Armorama website. I recently did it on a build.
It’s getting that cracked rubber look on the rolling surface that’s difficult.
