I don’t know I’ve never tried, I’ve stopped play with alchemy, too many headaches, my policy now is “if it’s a Thinner I don’t use it as muothwash” … honestly if you don’t use AB at home lacquer Varnishes (Gloss,sami or matt) , they are usually bullet proof, a lacquer can only be ruined with another lacquer
@Mrclark7 just make sure that the decal is in exactly the right place then coat it with tamiya acrylic thinners. if you try to move after you have applied the thinner then there is a very high chance the decal will break apart.
This may have been the issue. Especially if you didn’t put a gloss coat down
Both. If you didn’t put a gloss coat over the paint. Depending how you applied the sol or Tamiya you may have dissolved a bit of paint that got on top of the decal
That or too much sol or Tamiya ate through the gloss. I normally put a bit of set down, place the decal on top and let it dry. I then place sol/Tamiya only on the decal and try my best to avoid getting it on the paint around the decal. Especially Tamiya will eat through the future and underlying paint. This is okay of its left undisturbed but if touch it before it fully cures agains you can ruin the paint and or decal
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The posting is about how I put pledge down over the paint and either product did the same to the pledge.
I also have a tank with this issue happening on a build when using testors gloss spray can and micro set.
Where I may have went wrong was watching videos years ago of people applying the micro on the surface before hand in an area easily twice the size of the decal. I am guessing the gloss coating might have been a different product.
Could the product be useful? Yes, But obviously pitfalls could happen.
I’ve used future without any issue but haven’t bought it in a few years. I’m still using and old bottle. I wonder if something in the new formula is causing this issue
I am going to try painting a swatch later today in the same vallejo grey and then coat with the testors and then pledge and then test the micro again. Probably should wait a few days to let the paint and gloss coats cure. So might be a few days to see.
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I have ben using micro set and micro sol for the last 40 years or so, never had a problem.
Vallejo on the other hand, is the only paint that I tossed in the dustbin. I just couldn’t make that stuff work for me.
I still have Future, the real one, thanks to a frienly soul here on Aeroscale who sent me a bottle just before it went out of production. Actually, i sent an email to Johson | …, and a person from the lab there was very clear that the original future was no longer being produced and any other of their floor polishes had a different formula that could cause strange affects when used on plastic.
I short I would re-paint, put a new glosss coat on with somethign less exotic, thenadd decals, and then finish with a standard dull modelling clear coat
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Here they have not sold the Future for at least 10 years, but it seems that every couple of years they change the formula and name, if you really like the Future Humbrol makes the Clear Gloss AC-7431 which is very similar, I use it sometime for decals , clear parts or other small brush application and I don’t want to pull out the AB.
Try to do some tests changing the variables, with and without Future (if you have other Gloss or Satin) etc …, but remember blue below and red above the decal, if you have some bad reaction don’t touch anything for 1-2 days and then try to go over it with some other gloss,many times fix everything… 
Gloss-Set-Decal-Sol-Gloss , after you place the decal over the Set and it’s in her place roll a Q-tips to squeeze the bubbles and absorb the excess of solution,then a light cote of Sol…and pray 
Speaking with my MMP dealer who is not a model maker it’s a AB professional on automotive and stuff like that, he told me that the water based acrylics are ready to be handled after 15min-20min but the chemical process of the resins goes on and it is completed even after 24-48h, so be careful with products not of the same line, I was asking for washes etc but I think it also applies in your situation
It seems that where I went wrong was using it both before the decal and spreading to liberal. using the micro sol only after might help here, however i just tested the micro set on the turret and same thing, though not as harsh it happens. first pic is micro set on it sitting and then wiped away with a towel 1 minute later. But way better than if using the sol with accidental outside decal touching.
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If you put Set and Sol only where the decal goes, that slight stain is no longer noticeable, plus after you put the gloss, filters, washes, mud, pigments and last coat of matt it disappears, it will be just an ancient memory
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Aha, that is why modellers do so much weathering 
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that method works great on missing suspension details too …
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