I’m currently building Academy’s M12 GMC and was planning on using the kit supplied tracks. The instructions say to use the tried and true heated screwdriver method to join them. The problem is the pins are too short and small to do it that way. My question is whether they are glue-able or not. I’m afraid that liquid cement might dissolve them, and super-glue might not provide a strong enough bond. I’m not a fan of the staple method. My last resort would be to to simply replace them. Any feedback would be appreciated.
You could try sewing them together - but pre-drill the holes…
If you replace them, bear in mind most Academy Sherman-type tracks are a millimetre too narrow, so the drive sprocket is also narrow - you’d need to add a 0.040" spacer in the sprocket to widen it to fit most AM tracks that are the correct size.
Thanks for that info. Unfortunately the drive sprockets are already assembled. I might try ‘sewing’ them together, seems like my best option at this point.
I built that kit many years back. I think that I used the heated screwdriver method, but don’t remember for sure. I’m pretty sure that the M12 kit had a bit of slack on the tracks
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Test them with the liquid cement. Just put a little dab on a spot that won’t show, wait a few seconds, then press it with your finger. if it leaves a mark in the plastic, they are glue able, if not, then no glue will work on them, leaving the screwdriver or sewing as your main options.
Ken
Nice work.
Thanks, I’ll try that.
if you can find Loctite FS454 cement; it’ll do the job very well. They used to call the stuff Black Max before it got the FS number
gary
A couple of times, with other brands, I have used a stapler… usually it can be hidden on the upper run or under a wheel. Not the most elegant solution, but it works.
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Thanks Gary, you reminded me that I had picked up a bottle of Stick Fast ‘Black’ super-glue, which I believe is similar to the Loctite product. I’d heard good things about it, but hadn’t tried it yet and forgotten it was in my tool box. 
Thanks, Carlos. I’ve used the staple method myself and found it could be problematic.
The tracks will not take any modeling glue as they are old school vinyl, not the newer glue-able type. I built this kit probably 15 years ago (or more) and used super glue on the tracks. It held just fine and is still holding them today.
Thanks I’ll try that.
Success! After trying the ‘Black’ super-glue and the thicker Gel super-glue with no success, I gave thin Zap-a- Gap a try and it seems to be holding. Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions.
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OK, sounds good!
Ken
Black max is the strongest I’ve ever seen, and also something not to play with. You glue your fingers together and you got a serious problem. Nothing out there breaks it down. It’s the only quick set epoxy that has a granular structure. I used in an industrial use, and it never let me down. Shelf life is about six months refridgerated. (same thing for virtually all epoxies). First time I used it, I literally glued a trash can back together after it was crushed (not a regular trash can). It was made of a similar compound as the rubber tracks are. It worked well. Another compound to try is the glue they attach the mirror block to the windshield in your car. You can buy it at most automotive repair places. Buy the smallest tube they sell
gary
I’ll have to look for it, sounds handy to have around.
Where would you buy that kind of stuff?
Ken
Not sure, I’d try my local hardware store first, then Home Depot, or on-line maybe.
Lowes used to sell the Loctite line, and so do most automotive parts places. Bearing outlets will also sell it too. It’s not hard to find
gary