As you can see, they’re easy enough to make. I wasn’t even trying to match them to any particular type of vehicle - I just like doing things that are different than the norm. Speaking of which, those turret mods KL talks about are another. The last time I fiddled with this, I thought I saw a correlaton between the turrets with machined edges, and the different (four) grab irons on the sides of the turret. It’s been a while now and I may not be correct on that one.
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I looked through my notebooks last night and found that I had measured them as 1-1/2 inch square stock. They are distinctly trapezoidal in the bend because of bulk strain, but I wouldn’t worry about it.
Evergreen sells a 0.043 x 0.043 stock piece, 8404, that scales out almost perfectly.
KL
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The configuration of the pack rails may be related, but only coincidentally. From what I can tell the pack rail designs changed over time. If certain foundries were supplying castings at different times the two features might appear to align. One thing that is likely true - as it was with Shermans - is that the foundries were more or less coupled to a particular assembly plant, i.e. Plant A used only foundry Z turrets while Plant B used foundries X and Y.
Again, this is a problem arising from a lack of information about production. Without knowing the serial and registration numbers assigned to the two plants, it’s very difficult to discern who made the tank in a historical photo or whether a particular set of features represents something early or late. For example, with two assembly plants and likely several purchase orders, you could have serial assignments like:
DTA: 1 - 1000, 1501 - 1749, 2000 - 3999
ALCo: 1001 - 1500, 1750 - 1999
That ran for several years. So, you could have tank 1234 built before tank 522, and tanks 3999 and 1800 with the same “late” features.
KL
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and bending it will probably reproduce some of that trapezoidal cross section
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Not probably, definitely. The basic principles of solid mechanics still apply, even to models.
KL
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I did not notice the "trapezoidal-ness in this photo or of the ones I’ve photographed.
But then, I wasn’t looking for it. The lift points in my photos were actually incidental. While I have nearly every dimension of Evergreen on hand, I chose to make mine from .040 sheet. Even with boiling water, I couldn’t get the square stock to curve into that tight a radius like that. I suspect it takes more than 211 degrees F do work - like sticking it in the oven, But by the time my oven would have heated up (and used up quite a bit of electricty unneccesarily) I just cut it from card stock,
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He-he, no, you wouldn’t in that photo. It’s only 1/16 inch per side and only on the inside of the bend. I wasn’t looking for it either but I had noticed it before and took the time to measure it when I was at SN 2620 in Reynoldsburg, Ohio on 1 JUL 2019.
You can see that the bar changes shape in the bend here though.
I asked a scratchbuilder I respect how he does it and he replied: “For me only boiling water works . . . bubbling boiling. I wrap the plastic (usually Evergreen) around the form tightly with two or three layers of Tamiya tape . . . too many layers will insulate the part from the heat. I hold it in the boiling water for ten or fifteen seconds, then dump it into cold water. Occasionally the process will need to be repeated to achieve the correct shape.”
To me, that means boiling water in a pan on the stovetop and dunking it with the heat still on.
KL
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It also depends on your altitude - boiling point in say Denver is a lot lower than on the coast.
Anyone notice how the inside edge of the curve in that close-up is heavily chamfered? I wonder if it was made that way, or if it’s wear from being slung?
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That’s why I said 211 degrees and not 212. 
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I think it looks too uniform over too long a distance to be wear from being slung.
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It a common shape for parts formed over a mandrel.
KL
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Well, this thread delivered and then some. I know more now then when I first posted it, but at the same time I know there is even more I don’t know. 
Thanks all!
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Ain’t that always the way? 
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9 posts were merged into an existing topic: The competence level game, split from other topic
The post by barkingdigger can be considered the last really on-topic reply to the original topic, the rest has been split off and moved to the Off-Topic Shenanigans area (visible only for those who have voluntarily joined that group and accepted that the rules over there are more relaxed, not for the easily offended)
Takom has included the “flat” lifting hooks as an option in the kit and they did a nice job as well. Hard to see, but they even included the more rounded/chamfered edges on the inside of the rounded parts of the hooks.
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I’ve been waiting to get one of their kits so I can finish my build. I need the turret stowage box. It suits my needs better than the Italeri one. If anyone wants to trade… Those would have been a bonus if I hadn’t already done them. I’m sure they look better than my efforts so I suppose a little demolition is in order.
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Thanks for all the help again, gentlemen!
The model is now in its basic colors and had its markings added. I’m a little torn on weathering though. Do I go for the parade ground look of the picture, or do I make it look like it’s been out in the field for a day with some light dusting and splashing?
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That’s entirely up to you. As one who models from photographs myself, I like it the way it is.
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That’s a beautiful finish on that tank Jay. Really excellent.
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