It is a crap shoot w/the DS tracks. I have built a few of the Dragon M48s which include DS tracks. I have only had problems with one set. A couple years after being built, they started leaching out an oil onto the shelf they were sitting on. I replaced them with AFV Club tracks.
Any current set of AM T158LL tracks will fit the Dragon sprockets.
I would recommend either T158LL version (hollowed horns) of Bronco and DEF Model track sets. DEF set included in the latest Academy SEP v.2 Tusk kit is top notch in my opinion. RFM one is good, too.
I don’t recommend the T Rex 3D printed one unless you’d like to torture yourself after taking a big damage to your wallet. Over engineered and a huge pain to put together. As a 3D designer and printer, I was like “this is what NOT to do”.
Speaking of tracks, different tank: Regarding the T97E2 Track on the M60A1, I’ve Googled, checked a multitude of different books and find either no answer, or a wide variety. Might I ask: How many links of this type are there per track? I find a range of answers: 81, 83, 83…even 87?? (I found 1 internet ref. that suggested one side had more links than the other? If true, why might that be? Does it have to do with offset roadwheel spacing due to the torsion bars? I have some very nice metal/rubber tracks w/82 links/track., but no spares for 83 etc.TIA.
If you want to avoid the DS tracks disintegrating remove them from their plastic bags and avoid them contacting any of the plastic bags in the kit box. I usually store them inside the instructions manual. Most of the DS tracks react to the plastic of the bags and that is why they start disintegrating.
Best option are the Bronco and DEF tracks as mentioned above. The Bronco tracks fit the Dragon sprockets fine. I have tested the DEF ones on the sprockets and they fit nice as well but I have not fully assembled the tracks on a Dragon kit in order to be 100% certain that they fit as well as the Bronco ones.
This is a myth that is totally untrue, but many people, including tankers, believe. For a tracked vehicle to track (drive) straight, the tracks on both sides need to be the same length, or as close to the same length as possible, on both sides. This is true for any and ALL tracked vehicles. Unfortunately, track wear, track stretching, road wheel wear, etc. tend to mess this up, which is why you have to adjust track tension and sometimes add or remove a track block to try and keep everything even.
It would be like having a car with the wheels on one side of the car 1 inch (or 1 centimeter) bigger than the other side.
Thank you, so conceptually, if one side/one track has worn/stretched markedly more than the opposite, and all of the tension adjustment has been taken up…then as a last ditch move, removing 1 shoe/link and letting out idler tension could result in a difference in track length/link count?
LOL, at one time (perhaps still) Indy car & oval dirt track racers did have differing size tires wheels/tires R. Vs L. (to compensate for the perpetual L hand “turns”) But, again, that was oval track racing, not tracked mechanicals.