Rim color question?

I have a question about the color of the rim. For me it’s not white or silver. Maybe some of you have an idea what color or mixture you would use for it.



My first guess would be unpainted aluminium.
Very light grey layer of aluminium oxide.
Model paints with aluminum/aluminium in the name are usually metallic paints which is wrong in this case.
I would start with a neutral white and start adding grey (not metallics) until it looks right.

Edit: Maybe a first layer of very fine (very small metal flakes) aluminum/aluminiun metallic paint and then cover it lightly with very light grey.


Thank you Uncle-Heavy!
I’ll try it this way and play a little with different mixtures.


Good luck!

Compare your attempts with an old aluminium kettle (kochtopf)

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I’ll do!

Probably a very light shade of grey; probably Mr. Surfacer 1000 spray primer would work.

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I agree. It is more likely a light, gloss grey commercial replacement rim.

A similar situation as the replacement rim on the front of this M915A3.


Thank you guys. I’ll try different colors. I still think the rim has a metallic touch.

Tip from car modelling world - it is mister hobby that has the finest flake metallic paint in the market and that should be your go to in this scale, I believe. All others tend to exaggerate the flake. Tamiya 20 dollar spray cans also are good (i have that) - excellent to paint a satin aluminium color on car body.


Thank you. Do you have a recommendation for me, which color is a good match from mister hobby?

I’d suggest starting with flat white with just a very little gray then mix in a touch of silver. Use an overall flat white filter and if you want to force the shadows use a Payne’s gray wash. Bright silver scratches and scrapes can contribute to the look of bare aluminum.

The ratio of silver to white in the base color can be varied to depict the age of the exposed, raw aluminum - more white = older more weathered; more silver = newer, fresher metal.

Same mixture works for galvanized metal but with less silver, a bit more gray, and the Payne’s gray can be exaggerated. Rusty spots and scraped edges also contribute to the galvanized steel appearance over the straight aluminum.

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Thank you! Next good option!

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May be google what people test and see which one looks best.
Like this video is one such example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SqFLFZivvtQ&ab_channel=florymodels

I really dont know. My experience is with Tamiya spray paint and that one is excellent but again, 20 bucks… I bought it to paint a porsche 356 project I had.

I spent a lot of time today about my question on google. I found some nice previews about mr. super metallic colors and tried my self. Maybe I’ll find a good solution.

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I will just throw this out there and see if it sticks: Base coat of flat white and then a light application of a light gray oil pastel pigment. No need for a final clear overcoat because the pigments will hunker down into the surface “tooth” of the flat paint. You will need to spray the flat white very lightly (do not spray it on in a heavy coat as that will create a smooth semi-gloss paint surface even with flat colors and the pigments won’t stick.)

Just my opinion - worth every penny you paid for it.

I know this probably won’t be viewed as any sort of equivalent; but here I am using dirt and dust colored pigments to create a weathered effect. However, this IS an example of pigments used over both flat white paint (the gas cap cover) and over a decal. (the star)
And again before applying the pigments I gave the entire surface a lite, dry coat of Tamiya TS-80 to create a slightly rough “tooth” for the pigments to grab onto. No other top coat was necessary.

p.s. Please note the nice very flat OD shade I am getting on this model by again using the Tamiya TS-80 Matte Clear. FYI - the particular shade of model plastic used here, I thought, looked so good that I sprayed the Matte Clear directly over the raw model plastic without using any other paint whatsoever! (I did use a black wash Citadel Nulin Oil on the engine gratings.)

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Hello Michael. Thanks for your recommendation. My M870A1 is close to finish. I’ll have to complete a M1000 semi trailer, this is my next opportunity to try something out.