Romfell Armored Car in Ukraine Diorama - Build Summary

Wrapping up a small diorama (really vignette) of the Romfell Panzerwagen, a Austro-Hungarian WWI Armored car, around Buchach Ukraine in late 1915.

I have a few WIP photos I will share in this top post and will add finished pics in a later post.

The kit is by Copper State Models and was supplemented with the following accessories:

• Romfell Photoetch Set by CopperState Models
• Interior Set for Romfell Panzerwagen (CSM) by Visi Models
• Romfell Trailer by Vargas Scale Models (never used due to bolt scaling issues)
• Austro-Hungarian Armored Car Mechanic by Copper State Models
• Austro-Hungarian Armored Car Officer by Copper State Models
• Base: Heavily modified resin street section, manufacture unknown
• Base accessories: Misc. items by Mini-Art, Plus Model, and Juweela

In order to depict a realistic scenario, I did a deep dive on the excellent manual’s history section, but supplemented that with the tanks encyclopedia website (https: https://tanks-encyclopedia.com/ww1/austria-hungary/romfell). These were both a great source for how I detailed the interior, as well as the paint scheme. I wanted to depict the vehicle while it still had the large black crosses, which by all accounts were removed sometime around the period it is depicted. Later in its operational history the Romfell changed even more, down to having a different set of wheels.

Another item that I originally wanted to use was its matching trailer, which now has a 1/35th scale kit from Vargas. However, I opted to not use it for several reasons. One is historically they only used the trailer at the very beginning of the vehicle’s operational life due to its limited storage space and reduction in mobility while towing. In addition, the kit itself has a few issues that would take some time to overcome. I found the print lines to be very excessive in my copy, which are very difficult to sand down in between all the bolts (and there are a lot of bolts). That brings up the biggest issue I had with it in that the trailer bolts are not in the same scale as the Romfell car. They look fine as standalone kits, but if you put them side by side, the different size of the bolts really jumps out. One way to rectify that is to sand them all off the trailer, which would also solve all those print lines, and then add new ones using aftermarket resin bolts (e.g., Archer). Either way, I ended up not going with it but wanted others to be aware in case they tackle these kits on their own.

The interior was first primed with a rust color from a rattle can, then practiced the good old hairspray method by applying AK’s heavy chipping fluid using an airbrush. Soon after drying I applied a basecoat of white, tinted with a touch of tan, to represent a light cream interior color. Worn areas were then created by rubbing this with a brush or toothpick. Interior details were expanded by adding a resin detail set by Visi Models. This included most of the fuel, oil, ammo and storage boxes, which are referenced in design drawings in the excellent kit manual. I used milliput to create the seat cushions. These details were hand painted mostly with Vallejo acrylics. All of this was sealed with a clear coat before applying various washes, followed up with oil paint rendering (described later for the exterior).

Right out of the box, the engine has a ton of good detail. The only thing I found it needed was sparkplug wires, which were represented using small diameter metal wire. I would glue one side using either super glue or JB weld epoxy, wait for it to set before pulling it to the other side to be glued. This was an aggravating process as I knocked them lose from time to time while weathering the surrounding area. For painting, I did try my hand at using some of the Mr. Metal Color products using a brush (even though label says airbrush only). I then added a bunch of grease and grime using pigments mixed with 502 ABT160 Engine Grease, which is tube based oil paint. Unlike most of my other oil paints, this actually has a gloss sheen to it and represents petroleum very well.

The exterior went together well but did require some filler along the top rear deck area. I wanted to depict a fully opened vehicle in need of some mechanical service so added some scratch built interior door handles (metal wire) based on photos, while also using most of the PE that came with the Cooper State Model detail set. Once the exterior was done, I temporarily attached the hatches and doors in a closed position to protect the now painted interior, as well as to get a consistent paint job for their exterior sides. I wanted to paint the vehicle to closely match examples historically shown, which appears to be a dark gray along the sides and top of the hull and a more grayish green for the bottom half of the sides (area below the doors) and wheels. To come up with these colors, some liberties must be taken but I think I got it close to what I was after using the following:

• Upper Hull and Top: Tamiya German Grey mixed with Tamiya Dark Green (~50%)
• Lower Hull and Wheels: Tamiya Dark Green

While airbrushing these colors, I did add some lighter shades to represent fading along the center of panels, especially on upper surfaces. Thus, no one color mixture was consistent. Once dry, I sealed these base coats using Tamiya Clear (about 50% Gloss to Flat to make a semigloss). Recently I started to seal base coats with semigloss instead of gloss as I think that still works well for washes, while also better for oil paint rendering techniques as described by Wilder and Rinaldi. I used oil techniques to not only darken areas that may not have been darkened enough through the wash, but to also add more weathering effects from both fading and staining. Chipping and small scratches were also added, first using lighter shade of the base coat and then followed up by a darker rust tone in “some” of the centers. Finally, mud and dirt effects were added to the lower hull using pigments mixed with some real soil debris. Large dirt sections were also washed with diluted darker earthtone enamels and then dry brushed with lighter shades.

Will make a new post for base details.

16 Likes

I wanted to depict this on a small urban base and recalled I had picked up a nice resin street corner scene from a hobby show a few years earlier. However, the packaging was already removed so sadly I am unsure of the manufacture. I detailed the base further by adding my own brick walls (some of which came from that venerable 40+ year old Tamiya brick kit), a large period water pump (from Plus Model), broken streetlight (from MiniArt) and extra brick debris (from Juweela). All of this was hand painted, including each individual street stone paver) using various Vallejo colors. Like the vehicle, weathering was done using dark washes (using enamels and oils), followed by lighter shades using dry brushing techniques. This weathering helped to blend in in all these various colors used on the base. Smaller debris was added using very fine sand and pigments, sealed in place using AK’s Sand and Gravel Fixer or Woodland Scenic Cement. In my testing I have found AK’s Sand and Gravel Fixer better for the super small things, like pigments, by retaining a more natural look. Additional details included:

• Broken Glass: clear acrylic cut to look like small pieces of glass around the streetlight,
• Open Storm Drain: thinned out the resin beneath the storm drain grate to actually give it real depth (a bottle cap is glued underneath the base painted black)
• Wood Planks: balsawood was cut to size and painted with enamels and weathered with pigments
• Fountain/Water Pump Water: clear two-part resin was added to the fountain, pail, and surrounding soil, adjacent wet areas were depicted using AK Wet Affects Fluid

The figure uniforms were base painted using Vallejo acrylics, but various shades of oils were added to represent both the darker recessed areas and lighter folds. This was done by first mixing various oil shades to match the acrylic paint, and then mixing darker to lighter shades, depending on where the paint was to be placed. These were then blended together. The hands and face were done similar, with acrylics as the base flesh then various oils to represent dark to light skin tones and other face textures such as the lips, eyes, and cheeks. I use oils for blending and small details such as the eyes and hair because I have found them easier to work with, but I do admire folks that can do it with acrylics.

That about sums it up. Would love to hear any feedback or answer any question concerning specific details.

16 Likes

The figures look way too clean, especially the guy with his shirt off. His hands should be greasy, maybe his shirt as well (from leaning into the engine compartment).

Great job on everything.

2 Likes

Good point, in all my concentration on what to paint them (as there isn’t alot of definitive data on WWI figures for Astro-Hungarian troops (various blues were used), I failed to even consider that. Maybe not the officer as he is even posing to stay clean but the mechanic, yeah… But I can fix that fairly easy!

2 Likes

That’s a really nicely constructed diorama with a unique subject! Well built and a nice base to display it on. Great job!

4 Likes

Beautifully constructed scene. I think it is nice the way you have shown off the interior of the car with all the hatches open- so you can see the detailed and realistically painted inners. It brings the car to life, I think, to be able to see the dirtied up crew compartment and the various details of the engine bay.

The weathering, both inside and out, is enough to give it a sense of being used but doesn’t obscure the aforementioned detail painting and the large crosses on the vehicle draw the viewers in eye in.

Base wise I can appreciate that it is just small enough not to drown either vehicle or figures but enough to tightly frame both while still allowing a 360 degree view of the vehicle. Focal elements of the base like the pump and lampost with broken glass are fine touches- and the figures are just perfect. They give that important sense of size to the vehicle and tell a story. Your painting of them is wonderful too- the shading and highlighting serve to bring out the best in the sculpted detail.

5 Likes

WOW!.. I love it!.. thank you so much for sharing… this is a small masterpiece!..

3 Likes

Thanks for your kind words. Yes, I came up with the idea of adding both the fountain and knocked out street light to help balance those areas. Both were “left overs” from other kits so put them to good use. I forgot to mention that I put in some research on just how to paint the fountain/water pump to match the period. I ended up also using the hairspray method on it in order to depict a couple of repainting’s from black to green. I found a lot of old photos of these public fountains that shows several recoats of paint, ranging from black, green, to even reds. Some of these are still around to this day.

3 Likes

One other item I forgot to mention on this build was the use of a filter. If you note, the light colored box for the iron crosses has a more greenish yellow tint. This was done on purpose as I used a filter with the initial semi gloss clear coat by mixing in a few drops of Tamiya Clear Green, Yellow, and Orange. I did this to warm up the base coat, while also blending in the various main colors of green, black, and white. I figured a green filter would pull them all in and reduce harsh contrast between the light and dark colors. Wilder’s Armour Modeling Guide 2 has some great details on doing this using Tamiya’s clear acrylics.

6 Likes

Yes I noticed the way you painted it looked authentic- they are usually big, chunky things like the one you have and as you noted have been painted with thick paint quite a few times.

2 Likes

Simply STUPENDOUS!!

2 Likes