Just doing a bit of prep work on some F-35 models. I am collecting the kits, aftermarket bits, and supplies at this point. Since it is still way too cold to paint in my garage, I am doing parts prep, which in this case is an inordinate amount of RAM tape sanding. Also looking at aftermarket details, such as ejection seats, landing gear/tires, masks, nozzles, etc.
One thing I have noticed is the huge variance in scale sizing of the various ejection seats. I have looked at Reskit, MCC, KASL, Metallic Details, Aires, Eduard, and Legend. That’s just about how I rate them BTW. There is quite a bit of difference in them, not only in detail, but also in size. The Legend is the smallest, with Metallic Details being the largest, with everyone else in between. I guess I’m going to have to go out and get rough dims on the M-B seat to see what’s what. Right now, leaning towards KASL for 1/48, and Metallic Details for 1/32.
The Tamiya kits in 1/48 look very good, I guess what you’d call “scale effect”, meaning they look like a very accurate version of the birds scaled down. The Trumpeter kits seem a bit “bulbous” for lack of better term, around the intakes and canopy areas. I don’t know if that’s just the different scales coming out, or different interpretations of them. Maybe inches to mm; who knows.
For construction, I have decided to focus in the cockpit, landing gear, and nozzle areas, and close up all other doors. I want to present an overall impression of these birds, without every bloody door or access panel open. To taste, obviously.
The painting details are obviously very involved in this case. This will be the most complex model build I have ever attempted. But the Have Glass finish fascinates me so here it goes.
Lastly, as I have done research, I have been blown away by the new technology going into these birds. The fusion of hardware and software is nothing short of witchcraft. Until we have anti-gravity drives, and cloaking devices, this should do nicely.
Sounds about right. I find opening every single panel or hatch on any model just to show off the interior to be a little unrealistic, unless it’s undergoing a complete teardown. I usually do the opposite - having to add interior detail because of an opened hatch, as opposed to opening hatches to show off interior detail.
I’ve been invited to a private tour of Air Force Plant 4. I should take the guy up on it before he loses his job.
Yeah for sure; I find looking at these things myself gives you the best impression for modeling. I want to hit the painting and refurb center in Sioux City as soon as it warms up some. They are doing the new Have Glass coating there so it would be interesting to see the effects in person.
Yeah it was a decision to close up the weapons bays but I think they will look better overall. Also Fat Becky will look a little plain with all her nozzles and doors done up, but the girl has to have some secrets.
I had always heard Fat Amy but Becky for a B model seems more appropriate.
I wonder on the seat sizes if that is because the pits between different manufacturers might not be the same. Like Kittyhawk might not match Tamiya or someone used a 1:1 and not a kit part. I am sure it’s all somewhere in between.
What squadrons are you planning on building?
The best way to display an aircraft is as if it is doing what it is intended to do - flying. But until we develop miniature gravity-nullifying devices it is difficult to do this realistically and aircraft spend most of their lives on the ground anyway. So probably the best compromise is to display it at readiness with the appropriate “Remove Before Flight” tags and “Aircraft Armed” signs as appropriate…
Cheers,
M
You could play with the small earth magnets to hold it in place, with some attracting and others repelling.
I seem to recall something like this being done, but possibly with something not as heavy as injection-moulded plastic…
Cheers,
M
I saw an Independence Day alien ship nearly suspened in midair at a show several years ago, The rear was barely touching the base - magnets kept it levitated in the front. The ship would move up and down at the slightest touch of the table.
I didn’t expect that anti-gravity remark to be so entertaining.
Yeah on the seats n cockpit sizing, I’m sure that has some influence on things. You will notice many vendors will specify Tamiya, Trumpeter, Italeri, Kitty Hawk, etc. Same with landing gear and so forth. So for sure there are different interpretations of scale. On the face of it, I would trust Tamiya the most.
Another fun fact, or at least a real good suspicion: the Trumpeter Fat Amy has a rather squared-up instrument hood, whereas Tamiya (and Reskit) are highly faceted. I have been working on that this morning to make it look more like the real thing. My suspicion is that this instrument hood is highly faceted to deflect any in-coming radar waves (that might make it past the shielded canopy). I have absolutely no proof of this, only a conjecture based on my reading.
Compare this with some 4th gen fighters, such as late model Migs, with canvas hoods in this area. Again, not an electro/optical/stealth engineer; just speculating here.
Also, the seat back angle of the cockpit had to be modified, for the M-D seat fit correctly. And finally the forward cockpit hood locating notch was relocated, approx .100" downwards, so the hood protrudes in front the correct amount. It sat way too low, according to pics (and Reskit/Tamiya).
I’m seldom afraid of appearing to be an idiot, so…
When you are sanding the RAM, ummm, why? Are you going to use paint or decals to represent them, are they just overscale?
I’m about halfway through the Meng Adir, and the work involved with masking the stuff in order to paint it is why I keep putting the kit back on the shelf. There are (were?) no stencil kits for the F-35I.
Perhaps, and if the fuel is not too hot (the fuel is used for cooling), and all that magical software works, and the temperature in the air conditioned hangar is correct, and the on-board computers don’t run hot, and the maintenance system is not “down” and permits the jet to take off… then it can actually fly.
If not mistaken then the current availability rate is below 60%.
Oh wow, didn’t expect some things to so…controversial, but ok.
Um, on RAM sanding. This is entirely to taste. IMHO, these are way over scale, so I am sanding them right down to the bone, and then using masks (probably DN but looking at others) to merely paint them back in place. Of course, YMMV. Just describing what I’m doing, not saying everyone else must do as well.
On reliability of cutting edge tech, yes mate, that is, and always will be, full of bugs. Does that mean we shouldn’t always stretch the envelope? My answer is of course not; this is probably the most complex, game-changing program ever attempted. It could (and has) taken decades to fully mature. I’m all for it, but, not everyone agrees. So you could just buy more up-dated F-16’s or whatever and drive on. That’s the 99% safe alternative. I’m sure their current availability rate is much higher. So point well taken; I’m am absolutely amazed by this A/C; you, obviously not.
As an update, just pulled the trigger on the 1/32 Italeri kit, plus some added doo-dads. Just spent the last two days correcting the Trumpeter instrument shroud so I may have been barking up the wrong tree. Or sprue? Anyways, having a boat-load of fun getting back into hobby, and enjoying the conversation with you guys.
I think possibly the MV-22 would hold that spot. In generic terms, Fat Beatty is a modern day Harrier. Which is still impressive to be short take off/landing jet. The Osprey goes from an aircraft to a helicopter and back. That was a game changer for the grunts who can go from battlefield case in Iraq to world medical care in Germany on the same aircraft. That mission saved lives as it was faster than traditional helicopters for the mission.
Too right, the Osprey certainly was a game-changer, in terms of being a transitional rotary wing-to-lift wing aircraft; and to your point, that program was and still is a very rocky road, in terms of glitches and accidents. Fat Betty goes from thrust lift-to-wing lift, and also to your point, is quite amazing feat as well. As to who gets the grande prize here, well, that is still up for grabs; although similar, I think the JST program is much more complex, due to all the software involved.
FunFact, the F-35 doesn’t have a stick and throttle anymore, at least they’re not called that. They are both referred to as “inceptors” or something like that. Because in the transition between wing and thrust lift, they can actually “trade places”, as it were, automatically, so the stick controls thrust (which in hover is up and down). This is more intuitive for the pilot, as the stick usually controls up and down with wing lift; and still does in thrust lift. This was a huge departure from the Harrier, which required an additional nozzle control, and throttle jockeying to hover and land. They said this new concept reduced the time to transition a pilot from several months to just a few weeks. And the accident rate, amongst jump jet models, is expected to go way down.
hai,
on sanding away the blobs that in reality are just a thin layer of tape: yes, that seems to be the only decent option to get rid of them. You can use the blobs to make masks before sanding them away.
On the complexity of things: interesting subject but not for this part of the forum. This would be better for the shenangans part of the site and avoid that a forum war erupts
buit, I see quite some signs that also the US military is doubting the path taken with the f-22 and certainly the F-35.
Back to modelling. I would only consider buying a kit if it would NOT contain those silly raised panels. The taped zones could be much better replicated with giving those zones a different surface finish (or, why not masks or decals???) I just hope that one kit manufacturer will one day see the light
Some years ago we were having big discussions about tiny raised panel lines versus small sunk lines.
I just can’t get it into my head that manufacturers are now putting those blobs on a model.
Righty-o back to modeling. Yeah even though they don’t seem to bother many, to me, they suck. And need to come off. I ordered both the DN and Top Notch RAM masks and will see which one will work better. And since we’re in 1/32, the 1ManArmy masks as well. Remains to be seen if I can pull them off, but here’s goes nothing.
Overall, the Trumpeter kit has been wearing on me so waiting for the Italeri kit to show up.
The Eduard PE stuff has been eating my lunch as well, so I need to re-group and study how to better bend and glue that stuff.
I’m sure either brand will work. What I’m not sure of is why one wouldn’t be able to cut pieces of masking tape, Post it notes, or whatever to get the shape you need. I’m thinking a large “close” shape, made quickly, and then all the tedious little bits done with smaller pieces.
Well, I’m sure you could, but the pre-cut masks are awfully tempting. I’ve seen tutorials both ways. This just makes me realize that I have much to learn here. Between all the masking/painting, PE, and 3-D parts, my skill levels are not up to snuff. This is gonna take much practice. And better tools and supplies. But that’s the first step; identifying what you need to get from here, to there.
Probably better than you think. And practice will always make you better.
Scratch that last statement. Practicing a thing well will make you better. I’m thinking of shooting, where you can practice not well all day long and never get better. But I digress…
I’ve slept at a Holiday Inn a few times. After condiering what I wrote above, I would choose a better COA. Here would be my plan, as I do intend to do one of these once I get my references at Plant 4:
Get a scrap piece of paper, cut from an already used sheet of printer paper. (always trying to help save the planet) Tape it on the surface over the RAM, and scribble lightly over it with a pencil, like in an old detective movie where the villain has written his evil plan on a notepad and left the sheet underneath as evidence. You’ll get a nice outline of that RAM. Poke very slightly into a few different corners with a brand new X-Acto blade. Make sure they go into the plastic. These are your registration points to align your mask later on. Make some photo copies of your pencil outline so you can practice a few times. Now the only tool you need is that good, sharp no. 11 blade. Cut out the outline using the blade and a metal straight edge. You want to save the outside part. The inside part is what you’re removing, so you can cut into it as much as you need to. Be sure to leave the outside intact.
Once it’s perfect, and only then, set it aside until your ready for paint.
When ready, spray 3M Spray Mount or similar sprayable rubber cement on the back side of your mask. Apply it carefully to match it up with your registration points you ingeniously added before sanding the detail off. Spray your color. Don’t thin it too much, for two reasons: You don’t want it to run underneath your mask, and you may want to keep a very slight edge on your RAM. Maybe not. We’ll see…
Another option is to pick a more current scheme were they did away with the painting the ram tape different color. 