A build review of the Takom M103A1 kit in 1/35 scale.
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/takom-m103a1-1-35-build-review
This is partial text from the full article (usually with photos) at https://armorama.com/news/takom-m103a1-1-35-build-review
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Nikos, thank you for the excellent build review.
I still want a 1/35 M-103 and having read all the complaints about Dragon’s, Takom will be my choice. But spending six and a half hours on just the track is more than I’m interested in. I don’t think I’ll make mine operable.
9/10: high praise indeed. Now I know what to ask for my birthday.
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An extremely useful and helpful article; I can almost feel myself straying yet again to push this one up the list.
I would be interested to see what colours you intend to portray it in. All the built up models I’ve seen - or at least on the www - are resplendent in what I refer to as the yellowish-brownish shade of olive drab, yet surely, in the late 50s/early 60s, the colour on AFVs was a drab dark green/OD, as sported for instance during the Berlin crisis of 1961 on this M48s:
Any thoughts anyone?
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Definitely dark green, I will display it as a Marines tank, from the decal options included in the kit
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Rats! Whilst I didn’t want to open up a new debate about shades of OD, I was hoping for a clear steer for an Army vehicle(!)
I’m sure yours will look just fine but I, once I get around to it (God knows when) I plan on a USAREUR vehicle.
Anyway, thanks again for the detailed review.
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Try US Dark Green FS 34079 for a US Army vehicle of the era. It looks like a darkened OD. That is what I intend to use for my Berlin brigade M48 tanks.
You can also do some variations with colors like Humbrol 116 or 117 and their respective equivalents in other brands.
This is my Dragon M103 painted with 116
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That looks to be the way to go; very helpful.
You’ve a good job of the Dragon kit.
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Excellent job on that tank Nikos. The finish is amazing.
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Why do you use a mix of glues?
Good question. Mr. CementS tends to evaporate too fast and is best used when you have attached the parts and use capilary action to get the glue into the joint. Humbrol poly is stronger, thicker and is it is better to apply it on the surfaces before joining them. By mixing them I dont need to change types of glue when working and get the best of both. The glue does not evaporte as fast as MrCementS, has better flow than Humbrol and is a bit stronger than MrCementS. For example. AK released glues recently, the equivalent of my mix is the orange bottle from AK, the yellow bottle is like Tamiya extra thin but evaporates even faster. I prefer my mix to the AK orange one, mainly because I noticed that AK glues tend to evaporate in storage, whilst my mix does not.
I do not claim that the mix is the best option for every modeller, it depends on how you are used to work with the parts. Works for me.
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