All, this is a continuation of the Tin Can Sailors Campaign over on the old MSW. Since the old forum will be shut down in a few weeks (or so I am told) I thought it appropriate to move it over here.
If you are able please repost your progress shows. If not, its no big deal. I am not sure how banners/awards etc will work out. I know its something the admins are looking at.
Rest of the rules will stay the same.
This will be the Tin Can Sailors campaign aimed at all vessels which are defined as a Destroyer.
This definition is: A destroyer is a fast, maneuverable, long-endurance warship intended to escort larger vessels in a fleet, convoy or battle group and defend them against powerful short range attackers.
Restrictions would be as follows:
Any ship which fulfills the above criteria. To help open it up this can include any ship be it wet or space i.e A Klingon D2
Start date of 1 October 2020 and have it run for 1 year since us ship builders are a slow lot. This can be pushed back depending on how long it takes to get the initial 10 participants.
No limits on scale or vessel tonnage.
I have no issues with started kits but no more than 25% completed.
All aftermarket parts/PE welcome.
Thank you all so much for being a part of this campaign/build!
Again here is my entry in the Tin Can Sailors group build. USS Buchanan DD-484. The kit comes as an early 1942 build but I will be changing it to a late 1942 build. I have a thing for 40mm Bofors.
Inazuma is almost done. All that’s left is the davits, the couple of boats on them, masts, and a couple of other bits that stick up and will get knocked off if you try to put them on before you’re almost done :-).
Ok, if it’s a 12 month run time, you got me! I’m in with the 1/350 USS Frank Knox from Dragon. It’s part 2 of my Gearing Class trilogy. I still haven’t finished part 1 (the Gearing itself), but perhaps once I get this one to the same stage I can finish them both together.
So I need to figure out how to photograph ships. The blue background is better than the black one, but the photos don’t look that great. I’ll figure that out before uploading to the gallery. Anyone have a link to the campaign gallery, by the way?
This was a nice easy build, an easy way for me to get back to ships which I hadn’t done for quite a few years.
This was absolutely straight out of the box. It is the Yamashita Hibiki in 1/700. It is a beautiful kit with some gorgeous parts. I have another one. I wouldn’t do much different. I’d like to have turned brass for the masts. The torpedo gantries (I’m not sure that’s what they are called) seem a little thick so I might replace those with PE equivalents if any are available. And I’d add PE railings.
Very nice, so far thats 3 sets of modern destroyers!
Awsome! Welcome aboard.
Well done Phil, she looks great! Doing these quick, easy builds is often just what the doctor ordered.
Not sure about the gallery. The admins haven’t come to a consensus on how the campaign/group builds will work. For now posting here is fine. I will keep track of who has finished.
Well, I have to say, its great to see so many of us MSW’s over here at the new site!
A little update for you on the Airfix Type 45, for those interested in such things I’ve cracked open the box and upon inhaling all that fresh styrene (the bags have been sealed until now) the contents look really good: There’s 5 sprues in all and nothing that seems overly complicated
I made a start tonight. For those of you who remember my shenanigans in the “Gearing Class Odyssey” thread, this time I remembered to drill the holes in the lower hull to fit the stand!
Tonight I assembled the hull and main deck and managed to get a few of the smaller sub assemblies done as well.
Yes, this will work until things get hashed out on the new MSW site… I’ve been advocating to have Jim design some place to preserve the previously awarded and yet to be awarded Campaign ribbons going forward.
I have finally made a decision as to what kit I will build for the Tin Can Sailors Kit, the Dragon 1/350 Gleaves Class Destroyer USS Buchanan DD-484 (1944)
The USS Buchanan was painted in Measure 31/3D which is the reason I chose this kit. I wanted something that was different from the standard grey of the Imperial Japanese Navy.
I have some detail parts from Shapeways on order so once they arrive I will begin.
A full build will be a little time from now, need to finish the Aoshime 1/350 IJN Light Cruiser Tama first.
Can’t wait to see how everyone progresses through their builds.
Small update. Hulls on the Myoko and Atago are put together and the screw shafts / rudders have been installed.
I am quite impressed, the usual Trumpeter 2 piece hull went together wonderfully. There is a tiny lip in some places but not enough for me to fiddle with. The join is also right where the boot line begins so I’m hopeful that will hide issues. I had to do some slight filling on the bottom of the hull on some recessed mold lines.
I was interested to see that despite the Atago essentially being a slightly bigger variant of the Myoko, the bow bulge is a very different shape. Myoko is modelled after a Flight I Arleigh Burke and Atago is pretty much a Flight II. I wonder if the Arleigh Burkes also have different bulges. I will investigate the kits in my stash at some point to check.
I require an opinion on paint. The painting instructions for the Myoko calls for the deck and superstructure to be painted the same colour. The painting instructions for Atago have them as different colours.
So my questions are this:
Does it seem correct for a deck and superstructure to be the same colour?
Would it be accurate to have 2 similar ships in the same navy have different schemes?
I did some research online and couldn’t find a definitive answer however I did find these images of Myoko:
Heli-deck is distinctly different however the bow looks the same AND different depending on the picture. Top Atago looks like the bow is the same colour as the superstructure but the bottom 2 look different. I know its hard to judge due to angle / lighting / sun bleaching etc.
Not nearly enough of a ship fanatic to know the answer. But it occurs to me that it might be the same FS (JIS?) spec for the paint color, but the deck paint might have anti skid additives like sand that wouldn’t be on the vertical surfaces. The two different textures could than look like different colors depending on the light.
