I found some vacu-formed ruins from Miniart.
Maybe it´s time to hone my skills in this “ancient” art of modelling.
Maybe it´s time to hone my skills in this “ancient” art of modelling.
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I always wondered do you cut the part in the vertical plane, and then sand away the thickness of the plastic sheet from the bottom? Or do you just sand to make them flat?
Never had good results with these plus their more modern ones show the vacuum hole pips all over the place.
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Hi Milos,
it´s my first trial. My late dad build a lot of vacu but mostly planes. I think it will remain a trial only. 
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That’s how I would do it. I would also added styrene strips along the edges for additional support and added foam inside the walls for additional strength. Saw that on someone else’s build and that seemed logical to me.
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I can’t remember where, but I once read that before you cut out the vacuform part, you should paint the bend between it and the surrounding sheet a dark color. Thus, after cutting you have an indication of how far you have to sand for an ideal contour.
Never tried it myself, but it sounds like it might work.
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Alte ModellFan oder Modell Magazin Ausgaben?
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Möcht schon sein, ich weiß es einfach nicht mehr.
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Früher waren Vacu Bausätze ja mehr “angesagt”. Mein Vater hatte die halbe Wehrmacht Luftwaffe in tiefgezogen. 
Hätte mir mal fast bei Airmodel in Albstadt ne 1:72 C-5 Galaxy gekauft.
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Yeap- I did a couple of the Miniart kits- they are okay but as Ryan said reinforcement is the key to making sure it all works. I also sometimes sandwiched a thin piece of styrene between two halves- like the wall @HermannB showed with the laundry clips. It was easy to cut it to size by using the vac formed piece as a jigsaw. This quite neatly bridged any gaps on the outer edge (less filler needed) and made the part a good bit stronger.
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Hast Du nicht damals bei der IMM die M110 von Italeri aufgewertet?
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Hi Karl,
the problem in not glueing the two parts together. The bigger problem is getting the corner parts together. The inner parts are cut 45 degrees, but the outer parts are 90 degrees.
Here for explanation.
Inner part
Outer part
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Is the angled edge designed to glue onto another part? IIRC the angled edges in the kits I had usually mated up to other parts. If not then you could cut the angled section out and replace it with styrene perhaps?
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That´s the kit the parts come from.
https://miniart-models.com/product/36004/
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Well if that is the main wall then that angled piece should be the bit where the two sides of the wall meet each other. That’s is how I recall most of the wall/building angles joined up- at 45 degree angles.
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Ja, das war ich. Inzwischen bin ich zwar noch in der IMM, schreibe aber Bauberichte bei panzer-modell.de.
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The way vacuum-formed parts were done in the Old Days™ is that the thickness of the plastic card “base” was to be removed. A good tip was to run a marking pen all around the part, pressed into the angle between the plate and the part, before cutting it out. That gives you a clear line on the part that shows exactly how far to sand.
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I would pre-prime the parts in a visibly different color than the plastic color. FREX black or red-brown. This gives a lot of contrast to the parts so you can visibly eye-ball when you’ve sanded enough.
Damon.
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