So, m first try at weathering…I used Testor Enamel (the tiny cheap bottles) and mineral spirits thinned 3:1. When I first mixed it , didnt look right, wouldnt mix. So I pulled up a video, and he was using it. I mixed up another batch and mixed it A LOT and brushed it on. Came back a few minutes later to THIS!
I used “quick shine” on it first applied last night. It had dried almost 24 hours before applying the mix. Any ideas why it separated? It would not rub off so I am guessing “quick shine” (future replacement) wont work with this method. But, it didnt mix well and do I have 2 problems? THANK GOODNESS I did not do a completed model with this!
Sometimes certain mineral spirits are not hot enough to dissolve the enamels that you are using for your washes,thus you end up with particles rather then a blended mix
Thankfully you can fix it. But here’s the thing:
Being a new modeler I’m sure you’ve done due diligence and researched all the things you can do to make your model more appealing. Which is great.
Unfortunately there is a school of thought that dictates that every detail must “pop”, no matter how unrealistically it’s portrayed. The automatic step listed in almost every finishing tutorial is the wash. I do not subscribe to that school of thought.
Take a look at ths:
That is all you need to make those details stand out. Sometimes depending on the lighting the subject finds itself in, a little dry brushing can help as well. Not a white edged pasting of every single rib or detail, but a subtle dry brushing of a slightly lighter shade of the color.
Lots of models have been ruined by unfortunate washes, especially black washes on sand colored vehicles. The tide marks alone make it look, well, not good. I’d post photos but I’ve been told it’s considered bad form…
I ASSUMED I could wipe it down afterwards…I guess the old term about the word ASSUMED applies!
Neither side will easily be visible, glad I tested it there. Agreed about the weathering/wash thing being overdone. The example given looks great. I just ordered some Tamiya wash from Sprue Bros. I will try that with the quick shine. I did no weathering or panel line work on my last model and the quick shine worked well for decals and no problems putting a matt finish over it.
You may also consider mixing your wash from a darker tone of the base color if what you’re going for is an artificial shadow rather than some sort of stain.
It was black testors enamel, mixed with mineral spirits. It was just a thin line (by capillary action) along the ribbing. “In the videos” you can wipe off excess later. When I came back minutes later it was very spread out and the paint was separated. And would not clean up. It is kind of a test area. I will try using different colorations later (maybe). I may just stop using this method. I did order three colors of dedicated washes. Hopefully that works. Thx for the advice!
Thanks! I will stop it! my inexperienced guess is that mineral spirits will “melt” quick shine, but not all mineral spirits will combine with the enamel paint. I had a lose/lose combination!
Try using thinner of the same brand and system your color is from. Like Tojo72 mentioned above, some spirits are not compatible with all enamels. The same problem you have is what I had when I tried going ‘cheap’ and using stuff I already had in the supplies.
Seanmcandrews has a good suggestion that I use for ‘forced scale shadows’ on the details on my models. Mix a subtle wash of a darker hue than the base color it’s going over.
i copy that. I am not a fan of excessive use of washes, panel liners … on an airplane. it sometimes makes the plane look very unrealistic. If I see to what extend some modellers are exagerating the panel lines and rivets, it looks like the plane is assembled with 24mm bolts and has 5 centimeter gaps between panels
One way of testing the thinner-paint combination goes like this:
Needed hardware:
A hard surface with a colour that contrasts with the paint, white for dark colours, light grey for darker colours. A glass sheet with white or coloured paper underneath or coloured saucers.
Procedure:
Place tiny drop (no point in wasting paint ..) of colour on the hard surface.
Add thinner, maybe ten times more than the paint drop.
Mix paint and thinner until it becomes translucent, like a thin wash.
Observe for a some time.
If the thinned paint (wash) starts to form little clots, like the ones in your photo above, you have found a bad combination.
If the “wash” stays like a thin haze until the thinner has evaporated then you have found a good combination.
Mineral spirits and/or white spirits are mostly unsuitable for enamels, this depends on the brand of enamel, Humbrol, Revell and Testors may react differently.
I use balsam turpentine for my Humbrol tins, costs more than mineral spirits but it is not
extreme. Buying a larger can/tin/bottle at a paint shop or artists supply store is cheaper (per volume) than the small bottles sold as hobby products.
I had ruined a few Humbrol tins with mineral spirits before I learned not to mix in the tins (I know, stupid of me but I hadn’t learned the hard way yet). Balsam turpentine managed to restore them.
I tried balsam turpentine with Xtracolor tins and that backfired, they were not compatible, mineral spirits (i.e the brand I used) worked just fine.
Summary: Test before using. Paint brands behave differently even if they are labeled as enamels or acrylics.
I use artist’s tube oils thinned with mineral spirits for washes on all my models. One tube of oil paint will literally last a lifetime! It’s “old school”, but it still works.
But the golden rule remains: the thinners of the same brand as the paint always work.
and remember LEA for Lacqeurs - Enamel - Acryl.
Lacquers can survive enamel and acryl, acryl can’t cope with enamel or Lacquers on top. Enamel remains stable with acryl on top. So maybe the best paint for all that weathering and panel lining is acryl. At least then it is good for something
base coat: lacquer
top coats: lacquer, enamel
weathering: enamel or acryl
OK, this is only how I look at it. No doubt someone will come with an exampel of somethign completely different that works as well.
