When and how to paint workable tracks?

[firefly]

So I just finished assembly of TRex workable “Easy Tracks” (and mighty good looking they are too!). If I prime and paint them off the vehicle (Dragon Stug III) do they then become un-workable? Should I try brush painting them after installation??
All tips and advice most gratefully received. . .

[SableLiger]

i think youll get better results if you brush pain them. paint them in a base coat of Tamiya Dark Iron (XF-84), followed by a light drubrush of khaki or tan, depending on how dirty, rusted you want them. then wash them with AK Interactive track wash.

[BuddytheElf]

Hello,
I am by NO means an expert, but what I have learned is this. Since those T-rex tracks are resin. They will definitely need to be primed first, the paint needs something to adhere to (if acrylic) or it will not stick. If it is lacquer based then I think you can just straight paint them without the primer. Hope I am right, been a long time since I used lacquer based paints. Then paint them, either brush like SableLiger suggested or airbrush them the same color.

Another tip I was given, it is sometimes hard to get paint in the “bend parts”, where the tracks link together. Use an old can or spray can, and lay them over the can and paint and roll it forward to get good coverage. DO NOT go to heavy on the paint or you will make workable indy tracks into NON workable solid tracks pretty quick when the paint dries. Ask me how I know that? haha.

Hope this has been some help. Wish you the best on your tracks and show us some pics when you are done!

Best,
Walter

Somewhere in Ohio

[SableLiger]

For priming the tracks, you could use Mr. Surfacer Black 1500 primer., then use the aforementioned paints. yeah; @BuddytheElf is right; acrylic won’t stick to bade 3D printed media, so it’ll need a primer base for the Tamiya acrylic to adhere. the AK washes are enamel based, so you won’t have problems with it.

[BuddytheElf]

Forgot I had asked a similar question awhile back…

Here is the link to read those post. Might be helpful

Painting Individual tracks, How do you do it?

Hello Everyone, Just wanted to ask how does everyone paint individual track links, plastic/resin? I find I am struggling with them and using too much paint. Hard to get everything covered, lots of nooks and crannies. I would be interested in learning how you do it? What do you use and your airbrush settings, psi etc. Thank you all in advance for all the help. Best Wishes, Walter Somewhere in Ohio…

Walter

[SableLiger]

herte’s a good reply on that link you posted:

@BringupthePIAT

I paint them on the sprues as if you are careful snipping them off there is little to no cleanup required. Once painted and washed etc they go on the painted model lower hull.

Paints depend on a lot of things but I’ve found a system that works for me.

1 - black matt primer, usually rattle can or Mig One Shot by airbrush.
2 - Mig Dark Tracks base layer
3 - Metallic wash made of 25% Vallejo black was, 25% flesh wash, 25% pale grey wash, 10% Vallejo metallic polished steel paint and 15% thinner.
4 - wet pigments fixed with hairspray.
5 - dust layer where appropriate with a thick wash of yellow or dust wash.
6 - cleats and track edges picked out in either 6B pencil or lightly brushed with polished metal raw pigments, depending on mood.

[Dan]

Is this lacquer?

[SableLiger]

I don’t know about the primer and the Tamiya paint I mentioned it’s acrylic, but they have a lacquer enamel as well (LP-54).

as for the wash, the AK Interactive washes are enamel based.

[Dan]

Thanks,
I just looked up the black version on ebay and I see they carry other colors which I think are lacquer, so I’m guessing this is so.

[SableLiger]

I use both black and red oxide. I usually used the Tamiya Fine Line Primer in Red Oxide for my German builds, but it’s out of stock everywhere.

[Tojo72]

I prime,paint,and weather them off the tank.
I prefer Tamiya fine gray in the rattlecan
Tamiya XF-84 Dark Iron
AK Track Wash Brown
Dust with appropiate pigments

Of course different tanks,like Shermans,and Abrams call for different processes.

[SableLiger]

Great minds think alike.

[BringupthePIAT]

Thanks mate

[taylorrl]

Dan, yes. Mr Surfacer 1500 is lacquer. It is my preferred primer. It is self-leveling and sticks to every material I’ve used in modeling. My issues with paint flecking off PE, resin, and metal barrels stopped when I started priming everything with this. It’s expensive but worth it.

[Dan]

Thanks

[JFeder504]

What an interesting question !
It is better to paint/weather them separately ( see above ) and keep them mobile.
Then the thing is to install them on the tank/half-track. The thing is not to break mudguards and pass them through. And lock the loop with the last pin !
But the result will be your vehicle is sitting on mobile track which is troublesome if you want it attached to some ground base. On the other side, mobile track will allow you to tune the sagging and tension of the track ( track length + tension wheel to be adjusted long before painting ).
After asking here, I’m now either:

• where it is not visible ( internal side ) I glue the track to the wheels and to the base.
• screw the model to the base
• use a couple loops of something like fishing line to hold the model tight to the base ( via holes, CA-glue, and tooth pick )

If the model is very dirty/muddy then it can be done on the model, but I don’t the point of buying T-Rex tracks… !

Eric GEORGE