Just wondering which one folks are using. At the moment I am stuck with Tamiya spay cans.
I have been using Mission Model 024 and I prefer a brown filter over it.
My favorite OD is Tamiya OD cut with around 25% Tamiya Dark Yellow. Still fairly dark, but not so much as out of the bottle. I’ve used Tamiya JGSDF OD as well, which I really like & think it can be used straight from the bottle for a nice effect too.
It also depends on the time frame your vehicle represents.
AK Real Colors RC023 Olive Drab No. 9.
I have OD from Tamiya, Mr. Color, Real Colors, Mission Models, AK (regular acrylic), MIG, LifeColor and Vallejo and they are all different. I vary them up so my vehicles aren’t all the same hue.
My preferred are the acrylic lacquers like Tamiya, Mr. Color and AK Real Color.
My favorite is still Tamiya OD, but out of the bottle it is way too dark, especially for 1/72. I lighten it with Tamiya Dark Yellow, or Buff, etc, for varying tones, and for different scales. The first time I used OD without lightening it, it looked almost black!
My 2 cents:
Stick with the Tamiya OD. Then give it a very dry coat (can held at some distance from model) of Tamiya Matte Clear (TS-80)
The matte clear sprayed very dry will give the surface a slightly rough tooth that pigments will scrub into.
I then use pigments (in my case artist’s soft oil pastels) Usually tan for sand and a baby poop dark yellow to represent a darker dust/dirt. I pick up the pigments with a short bristle brush and literally scrub them into the tooth of the Matte Clear.
NO overcoat after that is necessary.
Also I NEVER pick up my models by pinching the sides like I was grabbing a Coke bottle. I pick them up with fingers of each hand under the front and rear edges. Like two twin fork lifts. No point in getting body oils or finger prints on you finished, cherished models.
Everyone’s probably tired of seeing these images but here is some recent work using these techniques. By adjusting the pigments used you can shift the color tone of the OD in any direction desired.
Example: the green canvas tarp on the back of the M3 - that color shade was achieved by applying a yellow ocher pigment, followed by a dark green pigment OVER the original Olive Drab spray paint. That tarp started life as being painted the exact same shade of OD as the tank.
Ok. Thanks everyone.
My truly favorite OD would have been the Model Master’s #1911 (spray can ~ now out of production) for painting early and pre-war US equipment.
It contained just the elements of yellow in the mix that Garrand mentions above. However now that I can use pigments as a filter to shift color tone after painting I give the question very little concern.
Again, as an example, I refer to the tarp strapped to the rear of the M3. It started out the exact same painted shade of OD as the tank.
p.s. I like that I was able to achieve this tonal difference but worry that that particular shade of green looks too modern, like a synthetic cloth material not in use until the Vietnam War era.
Another example of Medium to Heavy Pastel “Dust” weathering over Tamiya OD (rattle can). Also the faded fiberglass hood affect was achieved using an extremely heavy application of a green/white pastel mix.
(Shown here is kit bashed model of Experimental Oshkosh LHS 8x8)
This heavily faded Russian green was achieved entirely using a heavy application of a teal green oil pastel (pigment) over a base of Tamiya OD and Tamiya Matte Clear - TS-80. (rattle cans)
Also “dust” pastel weathering on wheels and chassis.
Another example of “color shifting” using oil pastels over a base coat of Tamiya OD and Matte Clear.
I like using a Tamiya spray lacquer as a base coat, then after that is gassed out go over it with enamel and acrylics