I tried to be semi scientific in my experiment, 4 time tests x 3, and though two anomalies, pretty much hands down curing = substantially weaker. 20 mins was not bad. I’d guess that 30-40 mins would equal the strength of no cure (but then, what’s the point?). I had a very rubbery part (I use Eco resin which is a bit more flexible), and had to zap that to stiffen it just to work with it. But I zapped 20+ mins, based on my testing. I would love to hear from fracture mechanics! And for someone to replicate the experiment. Next I will try heat and more time.
I only had trouble adhering to the bed once - when I reduced my number of base layers and the time. I do 7 base layers (had trouble at 5), and 45 seconds exposure for those layers, normal exposure is 3,2 secs on my big machine (2.2 on my Little Photon).
Leveling: I now use the “Fauxhammer” method (a miniature painter/3D print YouTuber). I level in the vat. The thickness of the FEP (nFep now or ACF) is the FEP itself. No card or paper needed. It does not seem to scratch or bother the FEP. I’ve broken pieces removing them!
OK, so this is not directly related to my new CAD work but it’s a sad news for CAD hobbyists in this niche space.
Some other CAD hobbyist informed me recently that a certain well-known AM company, which tried to engage in some business relationship with me, would simply take the designer’s STL files and never paid them back. Apparently, the company has been selling the 3D prints even after the original author told it to stop. Sadly, this is my 2nd time hearing that the company burned a designer and never paid him for the CAD.
I am glad and relieved that the fraudulent relationship did not work out.
My 3D print journey continues with the (new to me) HD grey Anycubic resin. Six iterations of support base changes have failed over the weekend. Tonight I’ve cleaned up the printer stage base and vat with an alcohol wipe down. Redid the level process with a thinner .5 mm paper spacer instead of the previous ,9 mm. Bumping up the first layer exposure to 45 second for 7 layers as suggested. Headed back to the workshop with a hopeful heart.
I hate this news of the AM experience. This is why intellectual property needs to be protected as it drives out the creative persons like James. I can not believe that the short sighted profit made by stealing original STL files will make up for a longer term expanded market gain for all. Best of luck to the CAD hobbyists out there.
Hi Stewart,
I am not even talking about IP protection or whatever. Basic buyer obligation here - if you get something, pay for it! If you ask someone to CAD something, pay for it! Stop wasting multiple hobbyists’ time by “shopping around” and asking for multiple bids or whatever. I am not some subcontractor or business. Be a civilized fellow human modeler or an honest AM company. If you value your time, my time is as valuable as yours. That’s all I am asking.
Can’t do much about inconsiderate folks, but a genuine business that takes STLs and refuses to pay up while making money off a cheated designer needs to be publicly “outed”.
OK, Tom,
I was not going to name the Armoraman members anyway b/c they probably didn’t realize they were doing anything bad and I can simply refuse to work with them.
As to the AM company that is supposedly known for not paying the designers is Elefant Corporation.
Maybe those 2 occurrences I’ve heard about were isolated incidents but I have been warned not to deal with them. I am not here to publicly shame or oust it but a fair warning to any CAD hobbyists out there. If Elefant has any justifications, I’d like to hear it - btw, their owner just had a stroke and is currently recovering. Maybe that was the excuse? Who knows? The designer I’ve talked to still hasn’t been paid however after many months.
Hmm - having a stroke is a real bummer! Hopefully that’s the reason, rather than anything more sinister. The whole payment/control issue is why I don’t sell my own designs other than to my trusted friend Mike at Scorpion Miniatures - we’ve been doing business for quite a few years now and I’m way more than happy. By contrast I did offer a design to another (now defunct) AM caster some years back, and got nothing despite initial promises. It’s a challenging environment out there!
Really sorry to hear that. My friend makes photo etch, and long story short, he was burned by similar scum. So frustrating that there are so many unscrupulous (a nice description) people out there.
Looking nice James! As you know I’m interested in more recent subjects than WWII and the like, but your level of art is inspiring. Thank you for sharing.
As for my print journey, the switch back to normal Any cubic Grey 3D resin solved my build plate adherence problem. Eight iterations and tilting the part 45 degrees to the build plate finally made a barely useable part with that HD resin bottle. Maybe I got an old or bad batch of resin, but switching back to what I know. Thank you for sharing ideas as an experienced sound board is most appreciated!
Not directly related to this hobby but… to keep my CAD work and continue increasing my stash, I used my Cricut 2D skills for wife’s bday card [pausing 3D guns, soldiers, and tanks].
