3D prints and CADs Part 2 - by petition2God

1/16 M113A1 wheel masks 3D printed







Excellent fit

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One more wheel mask for FDM 3D printing:

For 1/35 Tamiya Leopard 2A7V kit (#35387)





STL available on my cults3d page.

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Another wheel mask for FDM 3D printing:

For 1/35 Meng Merkava Mk. 3, 4, and Namer kits.

6 holes for the road wheels, 4 and 6 holes for the return rollers.
STL file available on my cults3d page.





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Another wheel mask for FDM 3D printing:
For 1/35 Takom T-55 series kits.

STL file available on my cults3d page.




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Finally CADded USMC M1A1 Abrams MBT plug and cover plate to go with the wading gear - used 1/35 Meng USMC M1A1 kit measurements.
Plug:



Cover plate:



Reference photos from above:


Still working on putting together a wading gear package set.

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Folks, the plug and cover plate STLs for the USMC M1A1 are now free to download:

A little cheer up for so much negativity going on in the US and the world - politically and economically…

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Plug looks great

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Nice!

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1/35 Sherman Firefly 1-piece gun CADded for 3D printing.
Measurements based on RFM kit and Formations’ AM metal barrel. Should fit both RFM and Asuka/Tasca Firefly tanks in 1/35.








Reference photos used (posted for reference purposes only under the Fair Use doctrine):



Split the gun into 2 parts and uploading separately:
Top end only



And the tube only


STLs will be available for download on my cults3d page.

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Looks awesome James. :+1:

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Nice job on the barrel!

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Let me say as one who owns a copy of this, wow is it nice. If you build German kits, don’t wait until you need one. Get one now and you will not be disappointed other than the charging handle doesn’t actually work. :wink:

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Is the barrel sized to accept a brass rod or tube inside the bore? I’ve had long 3Dprinted barrels develop a droop over time.

Hi Rick @taylorrl
All the gun barrels I make are hollowed out.

For this Firefly one, the diameter in the front is 1.16mm - a metal/brass rod of 1 mm should work fine with some room (0.16mm) to slide in.


Rear side is slightly bigger bc I made it tapered.

Several reasons why I make all my gun tube CADs hollowed:

  1. Making sure the uncured UV resin drains out.
  2. To be more accurate/realistic to have a hollow inside (obviously, cannot be replicate the real thinness but a compromise between the structural integrity and accuracy)
  3. Enabling a builder to insert a metal rod to prevent warping like you are referring to.

I hope this helps.

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Currently working on CAD of 1/35 and 1/16 NAR spine board for 3D printing.
I’ll post the screenshots once I finish:



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I like these!

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2nd version done. Still working on the 1st one like the posted above.
STLs for 1/35 and 1/16 scales will be available for download on my cults3d page.
The embossing will show up on 1/16 version but may not on 1/35 scale one.







Reference photo:

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Other version CAD done:
Both together:


Alone:





With metal rods:


Reference photo:

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James,

IIRC the NAR emblem and contract data are actually stamped/painted on the boards since any embossing would give body fluids hiding places - believe it or not the pathogen that causes Hep B can survive 10 days in a drop of dried blood - back in the bad old days of EMS the boards were made from plywood, then with the emergence of HIV and other blood borne diseases the impervious boards became the industry standard, they became available in a butt ton of colors and you could have the imprint customized. They were also lighter by a bunch.

I wouldn’t worry too much if the embossing doesn’t print.

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Thank you Doc. This is really interesting info.
Yeah, I figured that a decal would be a more accurate depiction but just wanted to make them fancy and help painting rather.

Kind regards,
James

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