Asymmetric or symmetric blade for cutting polystyrene

Hi all, I bought 2 small saws recently. One asymmetric and one symmetric.

I’d like to use the right one to shorten the frame rails for an M51 conversion, but here’s the thing. What’s the difference between the two and which is best for cutting polystyrene?

TIA

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Not a clue - I never heard of an asymmetric saw before. How about trying both out on some scrap plastic and reporting the results? Draw a line and see how well each saw follows it, the nature of the cut edge (sharp vs ragged) etc…

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Thanks for that, it sounds as if asymmetric would make a wider cut/remove more material.

I’ll try it out tomorrow.

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Brand name?
Web-link?
Pictures?

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Tomorrow

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Personally, I use P.E. type saws.It makes me cut slower and the Saw Kerf (Slot the blade makes) is thinner than a business card. This way I don’t damage detail next to the cut.

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These are the saws I was asking about. Haven’t tried them yet, but it follows that the symmetrical blade will make a narrower cut.

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What’s the difference between them? :confused:
:smiley: :canada:

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Alternate teeth offset on the asimm saw by the look of it. Damned if I know why, it just makes a wider cut, but it may have other uses.

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Asymetric: Has two or maybe three different tooth sizes, blade is 0.35 mm thick
image

Symmetric blade: Same size teeth all sides, blade is 0.5 mm thick

Symetric = all sides are equal/same no matter how you turn it
Asymetric = something is different depending on how you turn it

Width of cut could be influenced by the teeth being angled slightly outwards.
A saw tends to bind in the cut if the teeth cut the same width as the thickness of the blade.
Doesn’t matter for shallow cuts.

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There’s also the asymmetric handle, which helps you see what you’re doing.

These are Photo-etched blades - there’s no asymmetry in the blades’ profiles lest anyone thought that. The kerf is going to be the thickness of the teeth, unless your technique is all assed up.

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To add more fuel to the fire…

I ordered these from Sprue Brothers. I think the radius ends might come in handy:
ASKT0014 ASK/Art Scale - Razor Saw Radius Ultra & Extra Smooth 100/65 Teeth 2pcs

—mike :hocho:
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[EDIT] I like these! :star::star::star::star::star:

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I have all 3 of the Tamiya PE saw blade sets, they are great for cutting and rescribing panel lines. I highly recommend them!

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I like there is more usable saw blade.

I don’t think the true asymmetric kerf really plays into these blades as @18bravo stated. I believe this just to be a more aggressive saw blade due to varying saw tooth depth, hence why they call is asymmetric. I believe .5 and .35 is actual tooth depth, not blade thickness @Uncle-Heavy.

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If I had looked closely I would have noticed that the asymetric blade
has both numbers:


:man_facepalming:

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Manufacturers just love throwing big words around…

image

—mike :grin:

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It’s all about the teeth position at the radius ends of the saw blade.

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Welcome aboard Rich. You’ve found a pretty good community here.

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Welcome aboard Rich.

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Welcome here Rich! What do you build?

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