Hmmm, so I’m not much the wiser – I don’t think anyone’s said the actual finish of AB primers is any better, whatever “better” might mean. I get Tony/mudlark’s point that getting primer into complex/tight areas is better done with an AB, although pre-assembly priming/painting ought to reduce that problem if not eliminate it. And OK cost might be an issue too, although convenience with an ideal result attached usually beats price considerations for me – provided it’s within acceptable budget of course.
Each to their own - personal preferences aren’t a hanging offence…not quite yet anyway.
If it’s any help there may be one alternative worth considering. I try to dodge the issue altogether like Damon, so I only ever use primer if it’s a plane or car that does need a perfect finish. But if it’s any type of military vehicle to receive normal weathering/dings/stains/mud/dust etc, attempting a perfect finish seems pointless to my mind. I just give it two coats of flat steel lacquer, followed by several thin coats of cheap-artists-acrylic paint of slightly differing shades with (purists look away now) a medium-sized soft paintbrush. I can control that better than any kind of spraying, and no brush-marks remain after a couple of coats. (Edit - and by the way saves me a fortune in masking tape) When dry, a gentle fine sanding on edges/wherever takes off the acrylic easy leaving the steel beneath which can be either left or corroded as desired e.g.…
Never used it, almost always use Mr Surfacer thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner. The more toxic the chemicals the better the painting experience.
But, a couple of posts above say that water based paints and alcohol don’t mix - I don’t think that’s true, if it was then whiskey and soda would be a problem, and you wouldn’t be able to add both water and alcohol to Tamiya paints.
The gunk the OP glibble ended up with was the result of mixing water based paint with lacquer thinner, something I have experienced myself, after confusing Hataka red (water based) for Hataka orange (lacquer) - not the most contrasty colours to me.
Also, what’s that name about, Stynylwhatever… I still cant remember how to spell it…
Water is always water (depends a bit on what Your nearest water purification facility has dosed it with, chalk is often present)
Thinner can be a LOT of different things. Some “thinners” will turn Tamiya into gunk, some cheap white spirits will turnHumbrol into gunk after a few weeks.
Alcohol loves water BUT paints that like water may not necessarily be “alcoholics”.
Enamels and oils are relatively simple products compared to acrylics and acrylic isn’t one single product either.
Oh, by the way, ethanol is only one of many alcohols. IPA is another and they have different properties.
Methanol is another alcohol, we humans can consume ethanol (causes long term damage but nobody lives forever) while methanol is toxic.
Chemically, as described by Alcohol | Definition, Formula, & Facts | Britannica
" alcohol, any of a class of organic compounds characterized by one or more hydroxyl (―OH) groups attached to a carbon atom of an alkyl group (hydrocarbon chain). Alcohols may be considered as organic derivatives of water (H2O) in which one of the hydrogen atoms has been replaced by an alkyl group, typically represented by R in organic structures."
Mr finishing Surfacer 1500 is maybe the best out there, but two negative points-it is lacquer and dries pretty quick in the pot, even tightened.
For acrylic, matte primer, I switched to GSW matte primers-very easy to use and surprisingly durable-need pretty hard scratching to damage it.
Regards!
I also believe that some acrylic paint formulas are pretty temperature sensitive. Some for example if exposed say a freezing temperature will break down and react poorly later after being returned to room temperature. In other words, storage & transport temperature can have effect under certain conditions. So a model builder could do everything correctly and on occasion have bad experience with quality paints.
Of course the modeler should use compatible thinners etc
As for Badger funny named primer, many have good results, no direct experience because …Floquil Military & Floquil RailRoad Forever…wink
I’ve started using SMS paints from Australia. They have a couple of primers (black, white, grey). These spray superbly without thinning, although they thin well (and clean up) with Tamiya x20 thinner or laquer thinner. Theyre really good for the hot humid climate here in Queensland
I’ll never use any water based primer again. I have tried many over the years and not one of them has the “bite” to really stay on the plastic or resin. Lacquer based primers like AK, MRP, Gunze brand or the rattle can are superior to any water based primer. I have heard that Stynylrez is supposedly a good primer much like Mission Models paints or the “One Shot” primers from Mig. But again, it is water based and not even remotely adhesive as a lacquer based primer.
freezing temperature will break down and react poorly later after being returned to room temperature. In other words, storage & transport temperature can have effect under certain conditions. So a model builder could do everything correctly and on occasion have bad experience with quality paints.
