Hey, I was curious about alternative materials to creating a diorama base. I don’t have any XPS foam at the moment and my local hardware store hasn’t had any for a while. I was planning on using a small piece of foam I had already but it slipped my mind that I had already used. Does anyone know of anything else that would work? TIA, Colin
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Piece of plywood. Wooden plaque from a craft store. Picture frame w/wood or foam replacing the glass. Top from a large jar. Part from an ammo can. Cigar box. Helmet. Etc., etc., etc… Use your imagination.
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Thanks, I’ll probably pick up a picture frame.
If you have a craft store nearby, they have different kinds of foam, cork board, and wood. You can also try paper mâché or plaster over paper/chicken wire.
Ken
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I assume you mean Styrofoam i.e. the packing that comes with white goods etc, rigid & light. I’m guilty of cruising the streets late at night (noooo not for that…well, unless…no no no) when there’s a local tip-out collection scheduled, it doesn’t take long to find a pile of useful blocks/panels of it. I think it’s far superior to plywood/wood/cork simply because it’s lighter, inert, and allows scope for contouring. It can always be glued to a panel of ply for extra rigidity.
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Just don’t use CA glue, as it will eat the styrofoam away…
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MDF - Home Depot & others have it .
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Flower arranging Oasis blocks are good as well. Easy to cut and shape, and you can apply the mud rock or surface layer direct onto it.
I usually use that inside a cheap picture/photo frame with the glass replaced with a 2 to 4 mm section of cheap ply board or similar.
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Thanks to all who took the time to reply! I’ll try to find most of that stuff and see what works best for me.
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@Dioramartin , Yeah. Lowe’s has some of that but I’ve stayed away from it. I live in a smaller town so there’s not much extra styrofoam anywhere. I’ll probably get a sheet of that.
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@tankerken , I will check around at Hobby Lobby and Michael’s. Thanks for your help!
@Johnnych01 , I am going to look for small picture frames today and will look for those blocks.
@golikell , Yes, thanks, I’ve experienced that before lol!
@RDT1953 Thanks, I’ll look for that.
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this is the stuff. It will probably be cheaper buying from shops than online … it is over here anyway.
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You could drop by any electronics store, computer store, TV sales even Lowes and ask for packaging Styrofoam from their shipments, I have a healthy stack of this stuff that I’ve collected over the years, if you go to Lowes and look on the insulation aisle, they have a pack of sheets about 16" w X 36" long X 1/2" thick sold in a pack of 8 sheets maybe, for under $10.00 or so. As a side note, I don’t know if you have a hot knife but they’re invaluable for cutting styro, if you decide to get one DO NOT get the one offered by WoodLand Scenics, it’s junk, instead order one from Amazon at 1/2 the price. And while I’m at it, when at Lowes, look in the hardware/paint section for “DAP floor leveling compound”, this stuff is great as a covering medium rather than plaster, it’s Latex based, water clean up with a sandy texture but dries to a rubbery hardness and adds little to no weight to your base.
Cajun 
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@Johnnych01 ,Thanks, I picked some up today.
@agincajun , Thanks, I’ll do that! I do have a small hot wire cutter, but not a knife. I will look into it, thanks!
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Picture frame, a piece of styrofoam and modge podge to waterproof it.
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Please pardon me for resuming this discussion but it deals with my exact quandary.
I would like to build diorama bases for my models. Many years ago, I built two such bases on round wood plaques but encountered considerable problems when applying varnish from a can with a brush. According to my recent research, can varnish sucks and spray varnish is the way to go.
I have 8 display cases with a 10.25" by 21.5" usable footprint (and will probably build more). They are built like aquariums out of 1/8" acrylic sheet with removable tops. Round plaques look really nice in these display cases but cause two problems. First, round bases waste a ton of space. Second, reaching in to retrieve a round base puts all antennas in danger of breaking.
What I have decided to do is put two 10" by 10" tiles inside each display case, with each tile serving as the base for a diorama. This leaves 1.5" of free space between the tiles.
If I built each 10" by 10" tile into a cube, and put a handle on top of the cube, I can lift out cubes without endangering any models. There are a few possible ways to build such cubes. Each diorama can form the floor of a cube. Each diorama tile can slide into a cube carrier. Each cube can have four (open front and back) or five (open front) walls. Each cube can have two walls and 4 pillars (open on 4 sides). Each cube can have three walls and two pillars (open on three sides–perhaps the best compromise between display flexibility and strength).
This brings me to deciding what material to use for the tiles and cubes. Birch plywood sheet is cheap and will last a fairly long time in a dry display case. Styrene sheet is somewhat more expensive and should last a long time. Acrylic sheet is yet more expensive but very sturdy. Aluminum is very long lasting and nearly indestructible but rather expensive. Styrene is easy to cut. I do not know how to achieve a straight, vertical cut with acrylic sheet, birch plywood, or aluminum.
One last consideration is that a plywood laser cutter would solve all cutting problems and open the door to all sorts of shenanigans.
I have 4 concerns when choosing a base material. First, I want it to look pleasing when cut using readily available tools–straight, vertical cuts. Second, I want it to support the weight of a diorama without flexing. Third, I want it to assemble securely into a cube such that the cube does not fall apart 30 years from now because a glue join lets go. Finally, I want the material to last in the family for two or three generations.
Obviously, I have never built a diorama using any of these materials. I do not know how to make straight, vertical cuts in thick materials. (My experience with construction and power tools is very limited.) Given your experience building dioramas, can you offer any advice on the best basing material and what to avoid?
Please note, I am not really concerned with construction of the diorama itself. My concern is choosing a solid, long lasting, modular foundation.
Thank you for your consideration and advice!
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“Obviously, I have never built a diorama using any of these materials. I do not know how to make straight, vertical cuts in thick materials. (My experience with construction and power tools is very limited.)”
A simple cheapo hand saw will cut styrofoam. Be aware there are two kinds of strofoam - the white crappy kind (open cell) used in packing electronics, etc; and the blue, or pink, kinds used for insulation (closed cell). The white stuff can be found in trash just about anywhere. Scraps of insulating foam can be found around most construction sites (be sure to ask before wandering around and grabbing pieces!). Also be aware that insulating foam will make a LOT of static-charged particles when cut with a saw, and will stick to EVERYTHING! The crappy white foam will just sort of rip up and make a lot of also static-charged little foam balls, which will also stick to everything! A hot wire will make a cleaner cut, but also create toxic fumes as it melts the foam.
After contouring the foam, my favorite ground cover is a thin layer of Celluclay.
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Thank you for the suggestion! A lot of gamers use styrofoam insulation for making buildings, dungeons, terrain, and tiles. They achieve straight cuts using a Proxxon Hot Wire Foam Cutter. Textures are usually applied using embossing rollers from places like GreenStuffWorld.
The two really old dioramas I mentioned have foundation layers made of Celluclay. If has great texture for simulating detritus and soil. My back office shelves are full of old model stuff from 15 or 20 years ago.
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Right now, I am leaning towards one quarter inch plywood for the bases. A 15 pack of 10" by 10" tiles costs about $25 US including shipped. One quarter inch should be thick enough to prevent flexing and warping. I hope. The tiles are already cut to the right size, eliminating the need for woodworking equipment and skills. The tiles leave a 1/4" margin for error, perhaps enough room to dress the edges with a wood veneer strip?
I had another idea for the lifting cubes. What about using a wire cage instead of a cube? Perhaps I could secure two U shaped hoops, upside down, to the corners of each tile, creating a carry handle? That would save a whole lot of material and piano wire is cheap.
For making buildings, is sheet styrene the best material? I cannot think of anything better.
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Balsa wood?
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Foam core notice boards are very good for constructing buildings. They are usually around 5 mm; or 1/4 " thick, and are available in some “Dollar” - type stores. I have, however, tried two different types - both are faced with a thin “skin”. One is a matte surface papery feeling facing; the other is shiny and plasticky feeling - probably for writing on with washable markers. The shiny plasticky facing will peel off easily; the other kind will only tear off in bits, and take off some foam with it. Needless to say, I would recommend the shiny surface variety, unless you want to keep the papery surface on for your requirements.
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