While playing around trying for some modulation in my OD green on my Sherman (so so result) I tripped across an interesting result. I was on my last shade of faded OD green (using Mission Models) I was dialed way back on my air pressure and I ended up spraying to far back from my model. Those experiences w air rushes know you get paint drying this way but I thought it ended up with an interesting textured look. I think it’ll blend well w oils so I’m forging ahead. Thought I’d ask for opinions on the result so far or see if anyone else had experimented this way (accidentally).
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Not bad - but resist using that 2-inch brush! 
The only worry with dried pebbly paint is if it starts to rub off because it’s not well bonded onto the surface. Let us know how it goes!
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Yeap- definitely one of them happy little accidents! I think that will blend really nicely with oils as you say.
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Decided I wanted it a bit dark so I did a quick coat w a slightly darker OD at a higher air pressure, sealed it well and didn’t lose that textured result earlier. I was thinking of what you said and decided to ‘seal’ my finish. Thanks for the observation.
FYI ~ That “pebbly” dry surface you mentioned will really allow pigments to adhere in an almost permanent manor requiring no other fixative “top coat.” I use the pigments for both weathering and color shifting.
I attempt to champion this dry spray+pigments technique where ever and when ever possible on this site.
(Just one man’s experience.)
p.s. I have not experienced the “rubbing-off affect” mentioned earlier but then I don’t pick up my models like I would a Coke bottle. I usually use the “double fork lift” technique using fingers under the front and rear ends. Both the dry spray and the pigments seem to take more than a bit of burnishing to disturb and are not affected by just the occasional touch.
Vehicles seen below all weathered with oil pastel pigments over a very dry matte clear coat with no further top coat or fixatives.
Base coat is Model Masters #1911. Decals are applied using the wet Future technique*. Then all is top coated with an application of Tamiya TS-80 Matter Clear applied extremely dry.
I literally then scrub the pigments into the tooth of the dry matte clear coat with a small stiff bristle brush,
M3 in PTO markings: Battle for Kwajalein Atoll
M8 in ETO markings.
All lettering comes from Star Decals.
*Link:
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