While playing around trying for some modulation in my OD green on my Sherman (so so result) I tripped across an interesting result. I was on my last shade of faded OD green (using Mission Models) I was dialed way back on my air pressure and I ended up spraying to far back from my model. Those experiences w air rushes know you get paint drying this way but I thought it ended up with an interesting textured look. I think it’ll blend well w oils so I’m forging ahead. Thought I’d ask for opinions on the result so far or see if anyone else had experimented this way (accidentally).
Not bad - but resist using that 2-inch brush!
The only worry with dried pebbly paint is if it starts to rub off because it’s not well bonded onto the surface. Let us know how it goes!
Yeap- definitely one of them happy little accidents! I think that will blend really nicely with oils as you say.
Decided I wanted it a bit dark so I did a quick coat w a slightly darker OD at a higher air pressure, sealed it well and didn’t lose that textured result earlier. I was thinking of what you said and decided to ‘seal’ my finish. Thanks for the observation.
FYI ~ That “pebbly” dry surface you mentioned will really allow pigments to adhere in an almost permanent manor requiring no other fixative “top coat.” I use the pigments for both weathering and color shifting.
I attempt to champion this dry spray+pigments technique where ever and when ever possible on this site.
(Just one man’s experience.)
p.s. I have not experienced the “rubbing-off affect” mentioned earlier but then I don’t pick up my models like I would a Coke bottle. I usually use the “double fork lift” technique using fingers under the front and rear ends. Both the dry spray and the pigments seem to take more than a bit of burnishing to disturb and are not affected by just the occasional touch.
Vehicles seen below all weathered with oil pastel pigments over a very dry matte clear coat with no further top coat or fixatives.
Base coat is Model Masters #1911. Decals are applied using the wet Future technique*. Then all is top coated with an application of Tamiya TS-80 Matter Clear applied extremely dry.
I literally then scrub the pigments into the tooth of the dry matte clear coat with a small stiff bristle brush,
M3 in PTO markings: Battle for Kwajalein Atoll
M8 in ETO markings.
All lettering comes from Star Decals.