BOOBY TRAP ! Stug III Ausf.G Early Normandy June 1944 DAS WERK 1/16

Hello everyone,
Hello,
when you practice 1/35 and you discover for the first time 1/16 you are immediately impressed by the size of the subjects… The body of the Stug is imposing I compare it to my shoe in size 42

t was necessary to find a solution for the retain of the kit during the various assembly and painting stages. Once assembled the whole thing is heavy enough, the chassis is drilled, four nuts are glued inside, two at the front, two at the back. A 5 mm thick board will be held by four screws. In the center of the board will be fixed a wooden handle (old brush handle, piece of curtain rod…) that will finalize this adaptation.

The wooden board with its handle





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Welcome.
1/16th is huge. But there is more opportunity for super-detailing. :smiling_face_with_sunglasses:

Yes indeed, but I had to change my scale recently my view having dropped abruptly before I was working with the 1:35. the 1:16 is for me a comfort to my eyes..

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My Stug III finished put in situation on a photo that I made in Normandy during my visits to this beautiful region full of history.


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Welcome aboard Gérard.

Good looking StuG.

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Yes welcome to the site Gerard.
That’s an excellent StuGIII there. Love the camo job and the sign is a nice touch!

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Thank you for your feedback

The lifting hooks of the casemate are replaced by tin wire.Missing solders made in Magic Sculpt Before placing, the pots of grenade launchers will be reduced in thickness. For this I use a conical wick
The rear hook axes are improved, a pin prevents it from coming out of its location. A chain connects it to the hook avoiding losing it during the movements of the Stug III The 1 mm chain comes from Green Stuff World.

Metal rods are welded on each side of the casemate to hold back the spare tracks elements




![Pots-fumigènes|500x424](upload://jB9gB7D8CqnYq5nW00csGxAHCMu.

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Really nice build and finish on the Stug Gérard, and welcome to the site :+1:

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thank you

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With the track portion in place.Chassis and roadwheel :If you want to present some mud traces on the chassis, use a mix of pigment earth + white and plaster .



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T




The brush sleeve of the cleaning brush is too long and,Does not correspond to reality. It must be reduced by 3 mm before redoing it in Magic Sculpt, in fine etched on the existing.The fastenening are made of tin foil
The cleaning brush. The sleeve is painted Revell Earth 82 with Revell Mat White 5.

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It looks great.

I represented the “improvisation” that appeared on some Stug III Ausf.G.Som track links were welded all around the cupola.A deflector was placedin October 1943




Modification from october 1943

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Close view of the tank commander’s hatche.The protective pad is missing at the centre.On the kit hatch I redid it in magic Sculpt

Recovered from the eastern front, repatriated, repaired with material taken from other Stug,and repainted with a three-tone camouflage this Stug was not destroyed during the Normandy fighting. Due to a breakdown, its advance is suddenly stopped, its right track is damaged. Pressed by the allied advance he was trapped and abandoned by his crew in the sector of Sainte Mère Eglise in June 1944.
Close view of the tank commander’s heach.The protective pad is missing at the centre. At the top,the folding hatch for the passage of the episcope.
On the kit hatch, the protective pad is missing. It is made of Magic Sculpt



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Rather rare this configuration for the wooden storage frame did exist on some Stug III. I reproduced this assembly with balsa. The metal fixings of the boards are made of tin foil and Evegreen profiles for the welded pastes on the hull.





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Different from the Stug III, the camouflage of the wood was painted later with what the maintenance had available as paint!

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The teeth of the drive sprocket in contact with the track are metalized with a tube Pébéo paste of the Rubn’ Buff style applied to the finger.

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This is outstanding work. I love the little modifications you’ve done and the finish fantastic!

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Thank you for this compliment

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To make the mud on the sides of the chassis I made a mixture of pigment earth and plaster to obtain a creamy paste applied with a brush

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