I’ve recently found that a key to assembling tracks on the suspension with removal and later re-installation is a fixing the sprocket and the idler, if it is toothed. Otherwise the tracks never go back on correctly.
KL
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One of my main issues with assembling tracks to be removable for painting is the trouble I have in lining up the sections so they will fit together correctly after painting. Also, breakage of assembled sections when handling them, for things like test-fitting and painting.
If I can glue the tracks to the model before painting, because everything will be mud-coloured anyway, I’ll do non-workable tracks just fine. But if I have to paint the tracks differently from the rest of the suspension, I much prefer them to be workable for ease of fitting and painting — I’ll take the harder assembly in stride. Usually 
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Well, I never seem to learn the lesson often enough about measuring twice and cutting once. I jumped straight into surgery on the drive shaft as per Modelkasten’s instructions only to discover their configuration doesn’t leave enough clearance for the drive sprockets to turn freely without fouling the rivets on the hull tub. Had I simply drilled out the shaft and not cut down the outer shoulders as depicted in the instructions, I probably only would have had to find a longer shaft than the one supplied by Modelkasten. Now my choices are to file off the rivets on the hull tub, which can’t be seen anyway, or find a longer shaft and add some spacers to the retaining rings. Before I can make a decision, it looks like I’m going to need to assemble the rest of the running gear (and the tracks!) to make sure the spacing on the sprockets is correct to line up with everything else. Could be awhile before the next update…
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Double-sided tape was used to attach the guide horns to the edges of some scrap wood for painting. First, primed with Tamiya JGSDF Brown lacquer from a rattle can, then airbrushed with Vallejo red-brown. After dry-brushing the outer faces with Vallejo light rust and inner face with oily steel, they were given a grimy wash I cooked up with oils and white spirits.
Things are a little shiny in the photo because the wash is still drying. After the tracks are assembled, they’ll get dusted up with pigments.
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Those look nice and steely
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As I started to assemble the running gear, I decided I better get the back on the hull tub before I went much further. Which then prompted me to take a slight excursion into making tow clevises.
They’re not perfect, but close enough for me. The two most closely matched clevises will go on the front.
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After some experimentation to figure out the best way to assemble the track shoes without significant risk of getting glue where I didn’t want it, they went together surprisingly quickly. I found that if I assembled the shoes and then dabbed a tiny amount of extra thin cement onto the seam between the two halves capillary action would do the rest. I just hope the join is strong enough to survive final assembly. Won’t know for sure until the time comes.
I sacrificed some track pins and guide horns to early experiments on the best way to assemble everything so I was left with just enough parts to get the 67 links per side called for in Modelkasten’s instructions plus one spare for each side.
Now I have to pause till I have a chance to get to the LHS and pick up some regular (not extra thin) cement so I have a passing hope of gluing the guide horns on without getting glue on the shoes.
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Running gear is cleaned up (relative term since everything will need a good washing before painting) and ready to test fit tracks once those are assembled. Still in the process of scratching some new track skids since the kit skids were too chunky-looking.
Only the inner halves of the bogies and idler arms have been glued in place so that everything can be disassembled for painting.
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Final assembly of the tracks has begun.
After some experimenting, the best process I found is to hold two track links side-by-side and dab a small amount of Tamiya cement (regular, not extra thin) onto the end of the adjacent pins and add a guide horn. Repeat that until I have a bunch of pairs and then walk away to let it dry. Then I go back and add the guide horn to the other side. From there I use the same process to join two pairs, etc. etc. You can kind of see the process left to right in the photo.
Lots of words, but I’m hoping some of this might be useful for someone else contemplating doing Modelkasten tracks for a Stuart. It’s not difficult, but it requires precision and patience.
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And a lot of beer in between.
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You’re not wrong…
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Did not take long to realize that the longer the segments got, the more unwieldy they were going to be.
An auxiliary attachment to my home-made track jig solved that problem.
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No photos today, but a quick update. Finished up the tracks awhile ago. Once I established a system they went together surprisingly quickly and easily.
Turning my attention now to the hull, I’ve decided I’m not happy with the solid-molded engine compartment ventilation screen, so that’s going to have to be cut out and replaced with a scratch-built one. I’ve decided that resistance soldering will be the best way to do that so everything has been more or less on hold until I have a chance to get downtown to buy the parts to build my own resistance soldering unit. Fingers crossed…
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Scratchbuilt engine compartment ventilation hatch is done. Here’s what it was like originally, other than the mesh texture having been scraped off to make it easier to measure and shape:
And here’s the new cover dryfit in place:
Not perfect, but an improvement over the original, I think. Also allows me to correct the air filter ducts, which are simply 90deg elbows in all the reference photos I can find.
Also in the process of closing up the open undersides of the sponsons. They’ll never really be visible, but what the heck.
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Replaced the antenna mount with one I scratched from scrap brass. Repositioned the air cleaners and scratched new intakes from solder. I used fuse wire to simulate the rubber intake couplers.
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Calling the construction phase of this build done, although there will undoubtedly be adjustments to be made once I get a coat of primer on this. Also waiting for a pile of .30 cal barrels to arrive. The kit ones are pretty shabby, and since they feature so prominently on the Stuart they just had to be replaced. I think they cost as much as the kit and tracks combined…
Still looking pretty rough, but a coat of primer will help sort that out. A lot of scratchbuilt “upgrades” plus some tools out of the spares bin. Antenna is made from an electric guitar string and scrap brass. I’m still not satisfied with the headlight guards, but after multiple failed attempts to scratch replacements, I finally declared Tamiya the winner and used the kit guards (shaved them down a bit so they’re a least a little better than they started).
The outer halves of the running gear are only stuck on for painting. Those can be removed, wheels mounted and then glued in place.
Now, before anyone speaks up; yes, there are multiple unmitigated inaccuracies remaining, but that’s okay. The intent was to have fun. My “research” was not exhaustive (or even extensive). I fixed those things I noted and considered within my ability to do something about. The rest just goes with building an early Tamiya boxing. 
Hopefully, I’ll get a break in the weather this week so I can shoot some primer before I take off for a week of hiking in the Northern Alps of Japan.
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A lot of fantastic work on an old dog of a kit. It still doesn’t look too bad for a kit that was designed around two “C” size batteries. Enjoy your hiking vacation.
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Got a nice coat of German Dark Grey primer on today.
Why German dark grey, you ask? Because it’s what I had. I usually use standard light grey automotive primer, but I inherited a bunch of Tamiya rattle can enamels from a friend, and I don’t have much other use for them.
After initial inspection I’m not seeing a whole lot that needs correction, but I’ll give it another look after it’s sat for a while and I’m ready to start some real painting.
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Uncle Stu’s got himself a new set of OD duds.
Effect of pre-shading turned out very subtle; barely even visible in the photo, but it’s there.
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The air intake pipes and engine compartment cover aren’t wrong, they are just for a diesel-engined tank. You have converted your model to a gasoline-engined tank.
KL
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