It’s not a cartoon, it’s a 2D figure, and we never see it again.
And that’s not your Tiger. Your Tiger was “841” at this time. It looked like this when it was “821”.
David
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Further to my post above, important to have the torsion arms facing the correction direction, too.
Thanks (again) David, painting the mouse would be a right mare. Great to see the tropical scheme evident in your last image, very clear.
I’ve been trimming tracks for the past hour and a half, five points per track and two for each guide tooth, enough for tonight.
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That can’t be the “tropical” scheme; the contrast is too high.
That was probably created with the standard 3-colour system.
David
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Ah, great, thank you
Some happiness arrived today,
How the jerry cans will be used, the two seated crew on the ground.
The seated figure comes with an alternate head and left hand, so the two can be next to each other and look sufficiently different; plus, they’ll be in camo overalls. The legs will need some adjustments. Just waiting on decals for the figures and tank, and reading material from ETA for the figures.
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Kylie, I will be watching. Prepping for my Das Werk Puma.
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Not too much leg adjustment once you get the bumsquash set and the can settled into the surface its sat on. It will look the biz.
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Cheers, I’m hoping there’ll be further versions released later, a /1 or /3, without going into the field mods, Luch turret, and proposed versions, AK7b gun in starr mount…
Some progress in between cleaning tracks and pins,
Uh oh
Nurse! Clamp now! Or, clip, as the case may be
I decided to fit the hull rear plate, then add the small fittings as being easier than trying to glue it in place completed
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Why do ALL model companies do that? They have you glue all the fine, delicate parts onto a panel or hull top, then attach the panel to the hull, where gluing and taping or clamping long seams guarantees snapping off, breaking and losing to the carpet monster all said fine, delicate parts. Stupid.
Much more logical to first build yourself a complete empty hull and turret, making sure all seams are tight, taping and clamping wherever you need to. Then putty and sand to perfection. THEN start adding said fine, delicate parts.
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But that means you have to pay the graphics guy more money to add more sheets for the instructions which probably over 1/2 are not going to follow anyway. 
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A little more happiness turned up in the post today, reading material and maps:
I intend to use a map for one of the standing figures, and a book for one of the seated. The map will most likely be the top left in the first image, as it looks sufficiently generic to be like Kursk and how I’d expect a tank commander’s map to be, not colour or marked out.
The book or letter will be in the hand of one of the seated guys. I have four jerry cans (WSS x2, Heer x2) and may use two stacked as a centre table with either a map, book, food and bottles, or tank parts under repair. That’s a fair bit off, so I do have time to decide.
The paper is heavier than I’d expected, it is thick for a scale product, but I guess there are limits to what can be printed on. And they are not precut or stamped, you’ll need to do that.
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There are other options available, on thinner paper. Duplicata, out of Canada is one I like.
DIORAMA AND MODEL ACCESSORIES | DUPLICATA PRODUCTIONS | CANADIAN MADE – Duplicata Productions
Ken
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Ahhhhhh, thanks for the link, that would have worked for me last month. I did a lot of searching, but these guys never came up. I found a place that did 1/16 ‘Signal’ magazines in 1/16, along with maps, and flags.
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Ok, final pieces arrived today, decals for the crew and tank, thank you Peddinghaus.
I’ll use the DR arm bands, so if you’re looking for any, let me know and I’ll get them out to you for postage.
Also, a slight rearranging of the figures, the improvised table of two jerry cans will be between the two seated crew members. I just need condiments, bottle, flasks to go on top.
Time to do some building…
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To those that know… The armoured cover (B42) for the air vent at the rear of the turret roof, when would that have been removed, with just the flat plate (B54) in place? The unseen part is nicely detailed, but remains unseen.
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The cover B42 was only for submersion. If you see it on a Tiger, they just don’t want it taking up space elsewhere. It must be removed to make the fan work, which is critical if you’re firing the gun.
David
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I have been working on this, the sub-assemblies are starting to build up…
The instructions could do with a little more care, it would make things a lot easier as I found myself checking parts, references, and the instructions to make certain what I was doing was correct as called for in the instructions.
I am curious, the dome in the centre and bottom of both air filters, what is its function, if know, please?
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Basically the bottom domes & back had caps attached with small chains for dumping out accumulated sand & dust, I believe in summary.
Tiger1.info - Feifel-air-precleaners goes into detail and explains.
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thanks for that.
Looking at this image of S21 left hand side, I note no mud guards front and rear, no heat shields over the exhausts, and no smoke candles on the turret; there is a three tone camouflage applied, and that wide bin, which I will need to address shortly.
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The tank has the complete mud guards on the front in that photo.
Smoke launchers were officially supposed to be removed in mid 1943 because they could be set off by bullets. In the case of S21 we can see that the slanting bar to attach them is still there.
“Das Reich” didn’t like the exhaust heat shields, got rid of them.
Another thing I see in that photo is the S-mine launchers, all in place.
David
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Thank you, I’ll include this information in my build.
““Das Reich” didn’t like the exhaust heat shields, got rid of them.” As well as the frame over the flapper cap, from what I’ve seen.
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