This topic has been hashed out at various times. I want to make a thread in the reference section containing all of your techniques. May I ask you one more time to tell the best way you have found to fill seams and sink marks. Those that require little cleanup in detailed areas get bonus points!!
Thanks for repeating yourself again.
Greg
CA, accelerator, sand. Done in less than a minute. No shrinkage, no wait time.
In the olden days I used Liquid Paper to fill seams. Drying time was minimal. I usually gave it a half hour or so, then sand, prime and paint. I never had any issues with shrinkage.
Wow,so your talking white-out ?
Yep…old-school. 
Seams: Fill with styrene strips glued/softened with solvent type glue. Easy to cut/file/sand when dried/hardened. No risk of putty or CA getting outside the seam.
Sink marks: Styrene sheet glued into the hole. Depends on the relation between width and depth.
Small deep holes may get a plug cut from sprue and the rest filled with styrene strips/slivers.
Sometimes I drill out the hole to fit a slightly larger sprue-plug instead of faffing about with sloping edges of an irregular hole.
Ejection pin marks: Punched out styrene disks or disks cut from sprues. Some manufacturers, e.g. Dragon, provide us with little punch out pin remnants on the sprues and around the smaller parts.
Using bits of sprue from the actual kit has the additional benefit of providing material of the same hardness as the kit parts.
Jeez…did you read my mind? I’ve been doing that for years! And I might add that for filling unwanted, or unused, locating holes, I use a piece of the tapered end piece of stretched sprue. Stick a piece in from the outside until it stops, then add glue from the inside. When it’s all set up and hardened, trim off any excess sprue on the outside, then sand it down level. If you use sprue from the same kit the plastic will all be the same color, and the patch will totally disappear!
What do you do for those seams down the back of the fuselage where you do not want to sand off any details.
That’s always been my go to method:
Also shows CA in same post.
You spread glue along the mating edges of BOTH parts. A thicker glue works better as liquid glue dries way too fast. Wait a couple of minutes so the glue softens the plastic slightly. Then press the two sides together firmly so that a LITTLE bit of soft glue and plastic oozes from the joint. Use clamps or elastics to maintain the pressure. Let it thouroghly dry overnight. Trim the dried excess with a sharp blade, then CAREFULLY tidy up with file and sandpaper.
Before gluing I would try sanding for a better fit. Depends on the size add styrene and Vallejo putty to the seam. As it’s acrylic based, use a wet qtip to remove extra. What I used on my Meng whippet.
For seams surrounded by detail, use Mr. Surfacer 500, let dry, and clean up the excess with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner on a Q - Tip. This will give you a glass smooth seam without removing any detail.
For larger gaps, there is no putty on the planet better for models than Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (the red stuff in a tube). Available at any auto parts store, cheap. It adheres to every material, doesn’t shrink, and sands glass smooth.
I totally forgot about this extremely useful little trick, the perfect diameter is
always there, somewhere along the taper …
Prepare the surfaces well to try and get rid of as many of the gaps as possible,
dryfit, adjust, dryfit, repeat until nausea sets in if necessary.
Glue with solvent which “melts” the plastic a little so that the goo can fill remaining gaps.
Wait until dry, loudly exclaim your favourite naughty words, and then fill any remaining
gaps with thin slivers of styrene.
Use narrow file to remove the excess.
In the worst case recreate destroyed details.
I built the 1/72 Catalina by Airfix maybe 25 or 30 years ago.
The outer end of the upper wing surface (port side) had a horrible sink mark which included
a line of rivets. The rivets were probably incorrect and/or out of scale but I simply
DID
NOT
WANT
to rework the whole aircraft so I had to recreate those rivets.
The solution was to find a similar line of rivets on a surface with the same curvature,
make a silicone mould and cast a resin copy.
This casting was then grafted into the wing surface to replace the sink mark.
After some filing and CA filling it was impossible to see that a repair had been made.
Filling ejector pin marks
How do you deal with Ejector Pin marks? - General Discussions / Scale Modeling Q&A - KitMaker Network
