I have been having zero luck with like 90% of my models in spraying a gloss clear coat before applying decals to prevent silvering. I use rattle cans and even tried a brand new can thinking the paint was defective. No matter how many coats I put on, it’s never high gloss. I’m wondering if I bought some model paint in the jars and hand applied it just where the decals go if I might have better luck. Or maybe try decanting the spray and give that a shot. I don’t have ant idea why I am having this problem or what my solution is.
Also, I always go over the completed kit with dull coat after dealing.
I’ve seen brush-painted gloss coat using a paint-brand clearcoat, and I’ve seen a variety of ‘off brand’ solutions, ranging from artist’s acrylic gloss medium to Future/Pledge/whatever the currently available replacement is, with the latter both hand brushed and airbrushed. One note about the gloss coats is that they are often applied to the entire model, particularly when weathering techniques like oil dot filtering is used, in order to get the filters or washes to go on smoothly with no coffee staining. The non-paint-brand solutions are cheap enough that you can buy bottles of them and test them on scrap plastic that you’ve painted to determine which ones give you the best gloss finish before using them on your models.
So you can brush on some Future where the decal is going to go, apply the decal and then later after a couple days or so go over the thing with dull coat? If so I’ll have to check out which is the real Future to get. It seems I heard they changed something up. Also will dull coat stick to ant of that excess future that might remain?
“I did it myy-yyyy waaa-yyyyy”
I spray diluted Tamiya clear/Future/Pledge/Kleer/floor polish to get a satin surface (clear coat darkens matt paint by filling in the pores that makes the surface matt, a satin coat will have the same effect without covering everything in a lot of clear laquer).
Let it dry to avoid fingerprints and model sticking to my hands.
Prepare decal, soak, wash off the decal glue, apply a small puddle of the satin coat stuff where the decal will be placed. Smack the decal down in the puddle, use soft brush to squeeze the surplus laquer/polish out to the sides of the decal. brush the surplus in over the decal to cover it.
Use lint free cloth (strips of worn out white cotton shirts, not T-shirts)) to soak up the remaining surplus.
When all the decals have dried I give the whole thing a new satin coat to smooth out the differences between clear coat applied with airbrush and the hair brushed surfaces.
The main idea is to have liquid clear coat under the decal to fill out any pores which, if untreated, could result in silvering decals. It also eliminates any lingering doubts about the quality and durability of the decal glue (ageing, different brands et.c).
If the floor polish is tough enough to be used on floors it will definitely be durable enough to hold some decals.
The final satin coat is my personal preference, others may prefer a totally gloss surface as base for weathering et.c.
I’ll need to do whatever it is without an airbrush. In searching Future and modeling all I’m pulling up is ancient links. One had a link to this Future but it was so old it was not even offered. Trying to find a small bottle of whatever people keep mentioning.
Any acrylic floor polish will work.
Tamiya Clear, X-22, will work.
I dilute X-22 with water for a satin coat (water isn’t the best thinner for Tamiya acrylics but it works with hair brushes). Tamiyas own X-20A is better.
I think that a a good quality water misting spray bottle might be used as a substitute for an airbrush.
There is no real requirement for a perfect surface, thinned X-22 or floor polish is fairly forgiving.
People get good results on their floors using a rag to smear the polish on the floor.
Firstly because I don’t have one and not sure I have the patience to learn plus maintain one. So an acrylic floor polish and is satin or gloss preferred? Thanks
Learning to handle an airbrush to an acceptable level (able to get an even coverage, can’t compete with the true artists) is actually rather easy. It took me an hour or two at the most.
After that it is a continuos learning curve that never ends …
Cleaning the airbrush takes a little bit longer than properly cleaning a hairy brush
and the time spent painting is much shorter. After I had brush painted every little surface on the
chassis of an Abrams and a Leopard 1 I was fed up and bought my first cheap airbrush.
A half hour or more painting session was reduced to 5 minutes + 3 or 4 minutes extra for cleaning.
Your decision, not mine.
Satin finish is good enough for me since I’m not interested in weathering.
This might not be good enough when doing washes and other weathering techniques.
I suggest trying the two options on some scrap plastic (styrene). Got any broken CD-cases maybe?
Some kit you don’t really like and could use as an experimentation surface?
Visit a thrift-shop and buy some cheap second or third hand CD’s?
Broken/discarded CD-cases are also a cheap source of thicker styrene sheet. Some of the structures and patterned surfaces can also be used for scratch building.
AK Gauzy is a good replacement for Future/etc., but pricey in little bottles.
The chief benefit of Future was:
near universal availability, and dirt cheap in big bottles.
Like you, finishing coats are my nemesis, but Windsor & Newton Galleria in mat satin and gloss finish are my least problematic clearcoats.
It has excellent handling, can be hairy stick or airbrush applied, is self levelling and durable.
Ps you don’t need a super high gloss finish for decalling.
1 or 2 light coats where decals go, trim decals & apply as usual.
Various brands of application/setting solutions can be used.
[Tip: any ‘burn-in’ from over use of setting solutions can be lightly sanded with nail buffing sticks & re clear coated]
Finish with a clearcoat to suit
Ok I found that AK gauzy and it’s in my cart. Now I’m guessing that after I apply this as a base for the decal locations that once I go over the whole thing with dull coat that it will blend in .
I still don’t know why the H I’ve had so many issues with an overall gloss coat of rattlecan. Oh well.
Glenn, if you share some information about doing the rattle can, someone might be able to help.
How far away is the model when it’s being sprayed?
What was the temperature & humidity?
Was the spray can vigorously shaken for a minute or so before use?
FWIW - the basics of airbrushing to spray paint are pretty simple to learn as Robin mentioned. A basic airbrush and compressor can be had for as little as $40 to $60.
For example, this airbrush & compressor from Amazon for $60 and it works pretty well.
The humidity was normal and the temps in the 70’s I’ve shaken the cans like crazy and even tried heating them in water
I’ve sprayed from maybe 12 inches to closer where it would start to run a little in spots. Three coats and it never gets a smooth gloss!
Yeah in the late’50’s in jr high I’d always drool over those air brushes in the custom little wooden boxes in the hobby shops. I should just buy one just because. Give my daughter even more stuff to throw out or sell for nickels one day.
On tanks I handbrush only where the decals is to be applied, using light layer of Mig gloss varnish or Tamiya Clear gloss.
On sportcars I always use airbrush and the whole surface (obviously).
Both methods give great result for me.
The original Future is no longer made and the replacement Johnson product is not suitable for models. The new stuff to use is Holloway House Quick Shine. Available at Wal-Mart in the mop aisle. Same stuff as the old Future and very high quality. It can be brush painted on to the areas where decals will go, leave a high gloss shine for no silvering, and will disappear under a flat coat. Done.
