Got both versions of the TECHING DM121 turbofan – 3D printed vs metal. Which one would you keep?

[Pitar]

Hey everyone,
I recently got my hands on two versions of the TECHING DM121 1:12 cutaway turbofan engine – one 3D printed, and one full metal. I’ve built both, played around with them a bit, and also took some photos and short clips to compare. Thought I’d share my experience and hear what you guys think – if it were you, which one would you pick?

(3D printed Version)

(Metal Version)

The 3D printed version is really light and easy to carry around, which makes it perfect if you want to take it to a club or classroom demo. It’s also more forgiving during assembly – small misalignments are easy to fix with some sanding. It runs quietly, too, which is nice if you’re showing it off to people without scaring them with mechanical noise. There’s also lots of potential for painting or customizing it afterward, so it’s fun to experiment with.

DM121 metal model vs 3D printed model, which one do you prefer? | Stirlingkit

The metal version, on the other hand, feels super solid in hand. Once it’s fully assembled, it really looks like a proper engine on your shelf. The edges are sharp, the shine under the light is beautiful, and the mechanical sound when it runs is far more immersive. Honestly, for what you get, the metal version isn’t even that expensive – I was pleasantly surprised it doesn’t cost a lot more than the 3D printed one, considering how premium it feels. It’s definitely the type of kit you’d want to keep in a collection or display long term.

Launch Showcase

For maintenance, the printed version benefits from some sanding, primer, and paint to get a nice finish, while the metal one mostly just needs occasional wiping and a bit of lubricant on the gears or shafts. In terms of budget and purpose, the 3D printed kit is more affordable and great if you want to tinker with it or bring it to a demo, while the metal version feels like the “final form” you’d proudly put on display.

Now I’m torn between the two. The metal one looks amazing on a shelf, but the 3D printed one is fun to play with and much easier to carry around. If you could only keep one, which would you go for? Do you care more about the weight and realism, or the lighter, more customizable nature of the printed kit? Also, if anyone has tips for sanding or painting the 3D printed parts, or tricks for maintaining the metal version, I’d love to hear them. And if you have any ideas on the DM121, like adding lights, custom paint jobs, or stands, please don‘t hesitate to tell me.

Which one do you prefer?

• Metal
• 3D Printed

[varanusk]

Despite I am a plastic modeller, in this case the metal one look definitely better to me

[Uncle-Heavy]

I agree with varanusk

[Pitar]

Thank you for your fair review. I think so too, because from the video effect, the metal version of DM121 performs better. And from the price point of view, the metal version is only slightly more expensive than the 3D printed version, and it has a price advantage over many metal models.

[Pitar]

Thanks.

[WarrenD]

I’ll go with the crowd, I like the metal one better as it looks more realistic. I suppose if you could use a metallic paint (metalizer) on the 3D one, it would not look as plastic-y. I don’t like most of the current 3D prints as I think they have yet to resolve the issue of scan lines for what should be perfectly smooth surfaces. It seems like they all need corrective sanding/filling. In this case, using metal to replicate metal surfaces is the way to go. Just my opinion and it’s worth what you paid for it!

[Pitar]

I agree with you. The metal DM121 just feels and looks far more realistic. The precision of the metal parts, the smooth rotation, and the solid weight make it a far superior choice. Honestly, if you want the true “engine model” experience, the metal version is the way to go—well worth every penny.
Have you had a chance to handle the metal version yourself yet?

[loncray]

It seems to me that a hybrid version with metal guts and printed parts might be best of all - you’d still have the shiny parts but also the ease of assembly of the printed parts. Don’t know if it would solve the weight issue of the metal one though.

[Pitar]

I get the idea, but I think it would be weird if a lot of metal was mixed with just a little printed plastic. One of the main selling points of the DM121 is that it’s full metal, and that’s exactly what makes it so appealing and realistic. Mixing in plastic would almost feel like taking away what makes it special. Don’t you think the “all-metal” factor is part of the charm?

[loncray]

Unpainted, I agree. The metal looks great. But if any of it needs to be painted, then plastic would be better for those parts.

[Pitar]

@loncray

ks great. But if any of it needs to be painted, then plastic would be better for those parts.

You are right, but my painting skills are very poor, so I either buy metal models or plastic models that already have color matching. Please forgive me, haha.

[Uncle-Heavy]

@Pitar

painting skills

Most of us started there, it is mostly a matter of practice followed by more practice, getting advice and practising some more …

[Pitar]

Sorry, I’m a lazy person and would rather spend more time on assembly. For someone like me who knows nothing about painting, it’s really too hard. I once spent more than ten hours and still couldn’t get the colors right. Please forgive me. Maybe I’ll try some simpler models in the near future.

[Uncle-Heavy]

Your build
Your model
You paint the way You want

My paint jobs got ten times better (and easier) when I finally
got myself an airbrush. It was a cheap copy of a known brand
but still delivered a much better job than I could.
Mixing paint and/or techniques to get a specific effect takes
a lot of learning.

[keavdog]

Oh boy… I just ordered the metal kit. This will be my 3rd Teching kit - they’re so fun to build and look great once finished.

[Pitar]

Thanks. I’ll buy a spray gun and try it in the future.

[Pitar]

It seems that you are a loyal user of Teching. Can you tell me which metal kit it is? If you are interested, I would also like to try it.

[keavdog]

I ordered the one you showed. The DM121

TECHING Turbofan Engine Model Kit CFM-56 Jet Engine Dual Spool High Bypass Ratio Engine 1/12 Electric-Powered DIY Assembly Motor DM121

I have also built this one last year:

5 Cylinder Radial Engine Model Kit that Works - Build Your Own Radial Engine - TECHING 1: 6 Full Metal Radial Engine Model Kit

And this one a few months ago:

T700 Turboshaft Engine Model Kit that Works - Build Your Own Turboshaft Engine - TECHING 1/4 Metal Simulation Electric Military Helicopter Turboshaft Engine Model DM136

[Pitar]

Great! I’m really glad to hear you’re a TECHING user too—we’re kind of in the same boat then! Hopefully, we can share more experiences and tips with each other in the future.
The DM121 is truly a great model. I hope you enjoy it too. And I also want to buy a 5 Cylinder Radial Engine Model Kit.

[Pitar]

I compared the Teching DM121 to the Teching DM119. I put them together. They’re both made of metal, but the DM121 is significantly cheaper.
As you can see, the two models are essentially identical. Officially, they’re only about 20% different. The DM121 simply simplifies the internals, but it’s still a realistic model.