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Seems to work! 
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There should be a little butterfly trigger on the back, but it is so small most people (and kits) don’t do it.
Ken.
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Hey Johnny
I have changed the call sign matrix from a broken diamond, to a circle, hope it is right this time
Best regards
Kjeld
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Hi Kjeld, sorry if I have caused more work, that wasn’t my intention. Like I said, I didn’t want you to think you had the markings on it for a specific tank. Please don’t alter it anymore as it may damage it or lose some of the lovely weathering you have done to it.
Let me briefly explain the Call signs. 11B is the Commanding Officers tank in a tank regiment and has a broken diamond surround in this case meaning he is part of regimental headquarters.
The circle means C Sqn, a broken triangle is A Sqn and a broken square is BSqn and broken oblong is D Sqn. I am not sure if Engineer commanding officers also use 11b but if they did it would more than likely be Landover or similar smaller tracked command vehicle. I think engineer assets had the prefix 31 or 36, I’m sure it began with a 3.
So please don’t change the Call sign. Leave it as it is as others won’t notice, and it’s a great looking model … It really is the smallest detail and not worth worring about 
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Hey John
Thank you, I will not change it any more.
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For anyone interested in Arms Eng Sqn call signs I found this.
Image is from the net and for reference only.
You can see the CO Eng is 14E and AVREs are 31, A & B. Hope that helps anyone with engineering vehicles.
Disregard the OpTelic. These are generic call signs used at all times.
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Well this evening i have split my time to watching a series called the “MindHunters” and working on the turret basket for the Sheridan. now that this is done the construction phase is pretty much over with/
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UST curious about the kit sprockets. Destructions indicate parts 8 & 9 to use, but on the sprue you also have part 15 and 16.
Is this just a different variation ?
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Yes/no. A16 is for the M1A2 kit. A15 is a spare sprocket, just like a spare road wheel b58. Though they don’t tell where to put it or listed as unused parts.
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Thanks Ryan
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No problem John.
Where I’m at with the mine plough.
Have tried to add the locking pins for the end sections. Will use some spare PE chain to finish them off.
Does anyone have a good ref pic of the black (electrical ?) Cable and how it goes into the drivers can ? Does he remove a vision block ?
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I would have to look for one but as I recall the vision block closest to swing arm was removed and the cable is feed through.
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Basecoat is down. Not sure if the shading/modulation is showing through but its there. Not shown but the wheels and tracks are painted, washed and installed as well. Jerrycans, MG, the external fuel tanks and the commanders cupola are not attached and will be painted separately before being installed.
I am looking forward to painting that thermal sleeve in the barrel.
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You can see the modulation but it is rather subtle. You could do some post shading if you think its too restrained. I rather go for some fairly stark contrast as it all gets darkened and blended with filters, wash etc., but that’s my personal preference. That aside, I think it looks really good and am anxious to see the next in progress shots.
My understanding was there was a progression of methods through the years. Initially the cable was run through the empty periscope housing, then a combination periscope/electrical plug was developed , and finally a junction box was added to the left of the drivers hatch. When each method was introduced l don’t know.
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Sean is correct. During ODS, a socket adaptor for the right-most vison block was most common. If the adaptor was lost/broken/etc., then the cable was fed through the empty vision block opening.
Adaptor.
The power connector box was not installed until the early-mid 2000’s as part of the later batch of AIM upgrades. It is to the left of the driver’s hatch.
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Thanks @Tank_1812 , @Seanmcandrews & @HeavyArty - I will knock up a little adaptor to replace the Rh Vis block
And the Chally is coming along nicely Rory - well done
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Sean, Thats fantastic … not only a good idea of how to do the adaptor, but also all the chain connections and the fixing points for the wire release mechanism on the mine plough — great reference material