Mwaahahaha 
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The A9, developed further into the A10, was the chassis used for the Valentine so your
A9 would be “inheriting” from a descendant 
Edit: See post below.
Hangs head in shame, deeply embarrased. 
They’re more than slightly different, the difference is huge …
Note to self: Always check references first …
Valentine
A9
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Yeah upon further investigation it looks like the valentine and A9/A10 did not share tracks. There is a Friul set for the A9. Might pick those up
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Ut oh. I f*cked up. I looked at the suspension and made the purchase. Now I have to get the Friul tracks. That is a huge difference. I still have a Miniart Valentine to use the Masterclub tracks on though, so all is not lost.
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That’s why I kinda assumed they would have the same tracks. Same lower hull and same suspension made me think they’d be the same track. Wonder if those tracks clogged too easy
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I mean Ezra has spent more time in NM than he ever did here, so by that criteria of course we are. Besides, it about enthusiasm.
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I’ll send you kits at reduced shipping lol!
And don’t forget the NASA Emergency Evacuation Vehicle.
Ken
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I only have an infantry set from gecko (the British MG team marching) but if that kit is anything to go by I’m really excited for this kit. Their kits seem to be a really good value and they go the extra mile, including full insignia decals, tons of PE and even flexible hoses for the MGs.
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Lifetime membership GUARANTEED.
That’s exciting news! I hope you have a good time going to all the American hobby stores. What are you most looking forward to?
Gecko kits are indeed a great value! Packed with parts and detail.
I think PMMS only reviewed Bronco’s MkII kits.
Now after I thought about it, You’re right of course.
Bronco did improve on the second version of their kits and it sounds like a nice kit.
No offence to anyone, but I have have trouble getting my head around the concept of where guys buy a kit with full interior and numerous fiddly parts and etch brass, then they go all ‘Oh my Lord’ over 4 part tracks, or styrene indy tracks in general. Maybe I am just wired too differently to most - or being upside down in the Land Down Under gives me a blood rush… 
To be honest guys, the Gecko tracks are not that much work and do give you much nicer detail than the Fruil ones. Once you get into them, you get a rhythm going and it is not that bad cleaning them up or assembling them.
Forget the kit jig, get some thin double sided tape and stick that to a flat surface. Lay down two track face parts, place the skeletal track pin parts in the groove and place a very small amount of glue on the centre inside of the last piece with the guides and fit to the track face piece. It will be strong enough to hold the parts together. Then lay another track face, add the frame and then trap the second pad, and so on. Do a run and then lift the run off the tape, relocate the run so the last few links are on the tape and continue the process.
Too many guys put too much glue on the mating parts or use thin glue on the outside edge of the two parts and this just runs into the channel cementing the track pins to the pad. Less is more.
Try the kit tracks first Mead, before shelling out for others.
Their first A10 had issues they corrected in the Balkans version, but the A9 was never revised.
That’s good to know. I actually don’t mind Indy links, especially if workable, and not too fiddly. I had read the kit tracks weren’t good, but it must have been someone who messed them up. If they are good, I’ll give them a whirl
I take review’s comments like this with a slab of salt. I am very much a ‘I’ll make my own mind up on buildability’, after finding so many reviewer comments like this were due to user error not kit issues.
Too many reviewers said Bronco Sherman tracks would too often end up glued together. These are the guys that added the track pads first, then added the end connectors - wrong - if you add glue to the ends of the frames it will seep into the pin channel. Fit the two end connectors to the frame first and let them dry. Then build them on the tape like I said above. Every link remains moveable if you don’t add too much glue between the pad halves. It makes the run easier to fit and articulate to the road wheels…
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Yeah I agree. With this kit the only remarks I found on the tracks are “poor” making it hard to inderify if the detail was soft or the tracks were hard to build
A reviewer/blogger on Track link said they were ‘nicely detailed and the guide definition was great, but the trade off was fiddly construction’ - as I said, personal experience is the best way to go.
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I don’t mind a bit of a challenge with Indy links, I’ll give them a try first. Thank you!
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