Working my way through. I just finished the front part of the cab. I’m not impressed with the decal for the odometer and gauges behind the wheel: the thing fell apart way too easily while being manipulated; and it was also not well cut to dimensions…
Since the colors are so dark, I wanted to lighten up the “mood” with some colors here and there, hence the yellow/orange/red buttons on the radio, the green screens, and the water bottle from AK Interactive set #18. I also used grey panel liner, and while I’m okay with the result, I realized that cleaning up with enamel thinner also removes the acrylic paint. Should I use a matte varnish before using an enamel product on top of acrylic?
I don’t think you need to dry brush the cabin- it looks excellent the way you have done it. And yes before using an enamel product you should use a varnish- Matt varnish will allow the enamel weathering to adhere to the paint in a fairly even spread as it is very slightly coarse but it will not be quite as easy to remove it if you get it in an area you don’t want- quick removal would be the key. A satin or gloss varnish will give a smooth finish which will allow an enamel product, such as a panel line wash, to flow easily around details and into recessed areas and it should (depending on the product) allow you to remove it a bit easier.
@18bravo you were quite right: putting the fenders and the rest of the body together ended up being quite finicky… I damaged the paint a bit (nothing too bad) and will have to leave the doors opened since those don’t line up well with the cab.
I just received a set of 3d-printed mooring bollards from DioModels for my vignette. Very good quality! That should pair very well with the marine rope I got from Ropes of Scale.
Nice work all around ! I hope there is nothing important on the other end of the mooring line shown in the bollard photo above - looks like the line is about to part !
When two or more rope loops are on one bollard the professional practice is to thread the upper loop in from below through the lower loop before hooking it over the bollard. By doing this it is possible to remove either one without removing the other (which may be under a lot of tension).
In the photo above I assume that boat ropes belong to the same vessel (or whatever it is) and that they can remove them in the order from top to bottom.
If the ropes go off in different directions it could be assumed that they belong to different vessels. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Zcrdod1OAb4 proper English
Mooring lines on a larger ship can kill: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Q3FcXQ4pbMA
A friend of mine heard a steel hawser snap and slap along the ships side (he was inside), there was a 20 meter long dent in the ships side where the steel wire had slammed into it. Those lines will cut a human in two halves …
Ahh yes, the Sunday Yachtsman Style
Very stylish
Go for it!
It does provide a better impression of a
busy bollard than the dry as bones
professional approach
A brushed metal piece of angle at each corner. Available at a lot of smaller places like ACE. Or brass even - with some nice acorn head screws. Stick a tiny sliver down from the top and cut flush. You’ll probably never notice it.
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