Sir out of curiosity is that the same club that a couple of hooligans (I mean members) have a semi decent podcast out of.
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Yessir! It is the very same. The club just had its 50th anniversary. It was started by Brian Bunger (among others) who was and still is the proprietor of the one of the best full-line hobby shops in the USA, Scale Reproductions, Inc. We didnāt move from Bucks County, Pennsylvania for the hobby shop. We did that to be near the grandkids, but having such a wonderful resource here, means I donāt ever want to move away. The club has, I believe, 145 members and weāre getting some younger members. The level of skill within the membership is staggering.
One of the reasons that SRI is so good is Brian is a terrific model maker. I actually knew of the shop before we moved when I visited with the grandsons. I knew that, at least for me, Louisville, KY was going to be a pretty good place to live. We also have a terrific train store, Roundhouse Trains. I am both an avid model maker and a model train operator.
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awesome stopping out there is on my list if Iām ever traveling thru the area and maybe see if Mike and Dave are available for a drink Iād love to sit down and talk to them.
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Soup or glueā¦?
Iāll have the soupā¦ 
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I stopped using CA superglue years ago for various reasons. One, CA superglue has to be bought in a hobby store and most of the āBrick and mortarā hobby stores have since gone out of business. Two, have you seen CA superglue dry at the nozzle tip? Itās essentially a crystalline structure liquid, meaning that it expands as it driesā¦āgap filling.ā The problem with this is that CA superglueās crystalline structure expands microscopically, dries out, and breaks at the join many years later. The crystal matrix isnāt strong anymore because CA superglue joins via superglue nano crystals. That is CA superglueās fundamental flaw, and expert modelers mention this that parts will become āungluedā years later and whatās left at the join is a dried crystal mess of remnants of CA superglue. One has to scrape and sand off the crystals to reglue it again and run into the same cycle of the CA superglue breaking apart many years later. I had this happen to resin figures, and I washed my figures beforehand to remove oils and mold release. Itās the tendency of CA superglue to form nano crystals that makes superglue a problem because itās like akin to gluing on āsnowflakes.ā
I use Gorilla Glue for years, which can be found in many hardware and drug stores. Gorilla Glue superglue (not the slow setting one) has one issueā¦CA Debonder will never ever work on debonding Gorilla Glue. There is no debonder for Gorilla Glue. Once Gorilla Glue dries and is set, it is permanent. Itās not a gap fillerā¦Gorilla Glueās job is to join parts and it works, and I never had any join break or separate because Gorilla Glue doesnāt form nano crystals. I drop a little Gorilla Glue on a card stock and I use a toothpick to slather on Gorilla Glue. Also, it never dries as crystals on the tip of the bottleās nozzle, but it will dry in the bottle over time, meaning unlike CA superglue, the nozzle tip hole wonāt get clogged with crystals and dried superglue. Finally, Gorilla Glue often doesnāt get stringy like old CA superglue. Itās the stringy old CA superglue that can really ruin a model because you canāt control the CA superglue strings if you use a toothpickā¦like super cheesy pizza cheese pullā¦the CA superglue strings will fall unexpectedly on the surface of a model and stick there forever.
Photo from Amazonā¦
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I will try. I have a paperclip taped to an old brush handle which I often use for CA application.
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You could try to sharpen it, maybe hammer it to a chisel edge
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I feel this in my soul! Super glue seems to have a mind of its ownāsticks to everything except the parts I actually want bonded. And then suddenly it fuses fingers like itās performing surgery. 
Have you found any alternatives that work better for small PE parts or fragile joins? Iāve tried some UV glues and contact cement, but nothingās perfect yet!
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FWIW Ive been using craft āstickyā glue for small pieces of pe. I think its just thick PVA but it seems to work. Dab a small dot on the surface and give it 20-30 seconds then put on the part. In most cases it will hold well enough and dries clear.
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I always wear gloves when using superglue or Gorilla Glueā¦and a respirator too.
Gloves are so cheap and so plentiful that theyāre worth the expense and investment. Furthermore, they act as a barrier to prevent cuts, nicks, and paint from getting onto your bare skin.
Amazon.com has a wide variety of disposable gloves to choose from.
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Thanks for sharing your experienceāsounds familiar! Iāve had a few moments where I thought the glue had cured perfectlyā¦ until I picked the part up and it popped right off.
I might try using a bit of accelerator next time, though Iāve heard it can sometimes frost the surface. Have you had that happen? Or do you apply it with a brush?
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Since I switched to Starbond Black CA glue, super glue and I are good friends.
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In France is he called the Marquise de Voyager? Are those workable by chance?
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I think they could be workable if they are assembled correctly ā¦
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ā¦and the great things about the padded cell to assemble them in is (a) thereās no carpet monster (b) nobody can hear you scream.
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I wonder if they allow knives in the padded cell? Although I never been into a padded cell, I think the floor is also padded. Padded floor = Carpet monsterĀ²
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If the floor isnāt padded, surely the floor is painted a brass colorā¦
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Iāve heard great things about Starbond Black CA! Itās supposed to have less odor and be less brittle than other super glues. Howās the drying time and strength compared to standard CA? Iāve been thinking of switching too.
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I agree, proper assembly is definitely key. When all the parts fit well and are aligned, these kits can really come together nicely. Have you had any experience building one yourself?
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