I Have Lost My Mojo

I want to extrude the lettering on this tailgate in 1/35 so that I can add 3d printed letters to an old Snap-Tite kit.

I’ve had pretty good luck with Fusion 360, when I’ve had an isolated company logo, such as:

I want to isolate DATSUN from the image - essentially eliminating the purple and replacing it with white. I used to know how to do this on Paint and am completely drawing a blank. I’ve looked up tutorials on it and all they explain is how to “bucket fill” shapes that you create, not replace existing colors. As I said, I know it’s possible because I’ve done it. Anyone have any pointers?

2 Likes

Have you tried finding the letters (DATSUN) in some other photo with
a monochrome background?

This photo is angled so the letters are distorted:


Seems like they have used many different fonts/typefaces …

Some toy/model seen from a good angle

1 Like

take a look - maybe what you’re looking for:

It’s a cutout form your picture -

Cheers

Nick

1 Like

Thanks. That’s the result I need but how did you do it?

1 Like

Using a free software app called PhotoScape X. It has a cutout tool, that works fine for an amateur at graphics like me.

They give you three options - something called “magic erase” where any area you touch with the cursor gets erased, “lasso” where using your cursor, you trace around the shape (which I use a lot on photos of models/dioramas), and “brush”, where you drag your cursor with various digital tips - like a brush. There’s also PhotoScape (no x) which I use for quick resizing etc.

Cheers
Nick

1 Like

Thanks to both of you. I had been trying the “remove background” icon on Paint. I needed to isolate it more, which I snipped from Robin’s image (which did not show up when I did a search, weirdly enough) It appears correct for a '76 620.

I’ve gotten this far - I can erase the rest.

image

Now I’m tempted to just use an X-Acto and cut a frisket mask. If I use a filling primer it’ll give the lettering depth.

2 Likes

Hold yer horses -

Unhappily, the image is pretty low res - maybe helpful?

Nick

1 Like

Thanks. I cleaned it up as well. Reduced to proper size it looks pretty sharp.

1 Like

Becoming smaller hides many sins.

2 Likes

That’s what she said.

3 Likes

I Have Lost My Mojo

I haven’t, I can see it from here. It’s in the far corner of the room, curled up in a ball and sobbing loudly…
:nauseated_face:
Cheers,

M

4 Likes

And work continues.

1 Like

This is the best I can do without ruining the integrity of the logo. I used Photoshop Elements with the paint bucket tool to change the background color and then cleaned up the residual pixels with the eraser tool.

1 Like

For what its worth, I’d start with a .jpg or .png of the logo (ripped off the interweb) and convert it into a .svg. The import the .svg into my CAD program. The .svg file will act like a 3D .stl in that you’ll be able to adjust the x, y and z dimensions, but it will retain its general form and geometry.

However, I’m still at the crayon and finger-painting level when it comes to CAD since I use TinkerCAD. I have done this, though, very successfully with a lot of different logos and designs that were impractical to redraw in TC. I just scab the .svg onto the CAD design and then save and export the .stl for printing.

1 Like

The problem was, unlike most corporagte logos, I could not find a jpg. or .png of that particular font, except for on the actual tailgate.

That’s pretty darned good, too.

2 Likes

Would this help ?

But I guess it’s too late…

H.P.

4 Likes

Here’s a slightly cleaner version but it is a lower resolution than the first one

1 Like

Again, after reducing to proper size, the images are fine. The question now is whether or not I can print them to scale thickness, .014 in, with a smooth enough surface. I think the thinner parts of the letters could pose a problem. Thick black primer paint is still an option…

2 Likes

From my (very limited) fusion360 & 3D printing, i would go with
A: replicate the entire tailgate then raising the letters would be simpler.
B: once you have the letter file, find someone with a cricut or similar to cut the letters…
C: either in 10thou plastic, easier to glue to plastic tailgate.
D: or as a spray template in frisket or kabuchi (spelling) tape.
E: if the materiel chosen is smooth enough & adhesive, use the letters, and seal with clear coat.

It’s sometimes thinking out of the box to get a lateral view of a different type of solution.
Old school, I’ve used kitchen alu foil rubbings of logos from another kit to replicate them on another vehicle with moderate sucess

1 Like

I don’t quite have the skills yet. If I did, that would be my first choice. The inside of the tailgate has detail that can’t be replicated on the model without a lot of cutting.

The kit does come with an inner and outer wall on the tailgate:

No detail on inner wall, and not perpendicular due to drafting:

Single wall:

Double wall - just adding ribs won’t suffice - they have to be indented, not just stuck onto inner wall:

Or I could use the oldest modeling trick in the book - hide it with a pile of stuff. :grinning:

Am strongly considering getting the Cricut at Joann’s, since they’re going out of business.

Another reason to go the Cricut option - I can do it on .010 plastic, and it would be easier to glue than a 3D print - there’s be a little time to readjust. And there would be no gaps.

Also mentioned above, as a template. “Filling” primer might give it just enough thickness.

I have time to figure it out, not that I have a workable image. I have actually cut out tiny 1/35 Chevy logos from .010 plastic before. Not that I plan on doing that here, although the “S” is really the only real challenge.

1 Like