After a couple of stumbles (both original choices are on the M3 Lee hull lol) getting started in the Shermania 2026 campaign I’ve settled on converting the Italeri 1/35 Priest into the M7B1 version based on the M4A3 hull and running gear. There’s little to distinguish between the two, the major differences being the transmission casing, rear engine deck, rear engine bulkhead, and exhaust deflector. The Italeri kit has the correct transmission casing but the rear engine deck needs replacing. I’ve hopefully solved this by purchasing a Dragon Sherman kit that from what I can tell has the correct engine deck I need as a spare.
I’ve started with the kit supplied suspension as it’s correct for the M7B1, I am however removing the molded on track guide and replacing it with the Academy offering. It doesn’t have the appropriate bolt heads but I doubt that I have the patience to use resin replacements. I removed the hull from the sprue and have cleaned it up for painting before assembling and attaching the road wheels. The road wheels have been cut from the sprue for clean up and painting before putting the suspension together. Here are a couple of pics to show what I’m up to.
I was splicing two different kits together. The different drafting angles were making it a pain, if I remember correctly. I’ll probably take it up again at some point. It’s for my Rat Patrol diorama.
Hey the Rat Patrol! Now there’s a TV program I haven’t heard in a while. Sounds like I’d better take it slowly since I’ll be doing something similar with this build.
Easy enough to add with a punch-and-die set. You can skip most of the ones on the inside, too, because they won’t be visible (or hardly so) on the finished model.
I have a set of resin nuts and bolts that would fit the bill nicely, just figuring out if i have the motivation lol. And I’ve made things harder for myself as I’ve attached the bogies to the hull already.
Hi Roy, thanks for the info! I had already come to the conclusion it would need modifying as it’s a M4A3 hull so the firewall would be different from the M3. I just need to find the relevant info to duplicate it.
Hi
Exactly, my problem of mis-matched parts / sides too. A pain. So project stalled. But I do have some 3d printed ammo containers now as a motivation to continue
A little further along with the build. I’ve started modifying the rear firewall, probably not exceptionally accurate but a rough representation of the real thing. I am definitely no rivet counter lol! The main thing is I’m satisfied with it!
And I most certainly was not casting aspersions on your efforts, I really like what you’ve accomplished. My forte is wingy thingy’s so armour is just an interesting diversion lol.
Progress continues to be made, though I do like making things harder for myself lol. Got the interior assembled and painted though I’ll need to tidy it up a little. I’m using the 50 cal and mount from the Academy M12 kit as it’s way better detailed. I’ve also discovered that the Academy M36 has the correct engine deck and rear end I need to finish the conversion and have purchased a copy as my Dragon M4 is currently in limbo awaiting dispatch from the suppliers warehouse! As I erroneously thought I was buying shop stock. So while I wait for it to come in there may be a slight halt in progress, though I still have to attach the drive sprockets. The idlers will have to wait till I’ve received the Academy kit. I’m also looking to buy a set of metal track links to avoid the tight rubber band track issue. I’ll show you what I’ve got once I get them, I’m going for a set that has the duckbill built in (hopefully). Any who here’s where I’m at right now.
The cheapest option is probably AFV Club’s plastic T51 tracks, which aren’t too much of a chore to assemble (though you do need to file off an ejector pin mark on each block).
One tip for you – the gunner’s sight on the left side of the howitzer (parts 38 and 39) did not rotate with the elevation of the howitzer, in reality. It remained strictly vertical. Once you settle on the elevation of your howtizer, THEN glue 38 and 39 into place, ensuring verticality
One of the reasons for the B1 version was to be able to elevate the quadrant angle on the gun be mounting it higher. I can’t tell - how did you do it? I can see how ericadeane did it because the plastic is white - easier on my eyes.
P3270001_01 by Chris Wilson, on Flickr
P3270002_01 by Chris Wilson, on Flickr
