OK then,
J
The tank is ready to receive primer. This is by far the most complex suspension I’ve ever seen or made…
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Trying to fabricate a window. I always find it hard to create the right balance…
How is this for a first try?
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Looks good 
Uh oh The Great Brick Debate episode 23 ! It’s so subjective & there are a hundred different valid versions of a brick wall. Forgive me if I’m pre-empting what you’re about to do Erwin, but there needs to be more colour/tone variation – I’m sure some would argue there are many walls where all bricks ARE exactly the same colour - no argument from me - but it just looks more interesting & less toy-like if there is some variation. I also beg forgiveness for photo-bombing but this is what I mean…
Two different treatments, the pillars have much less variation but they’re darker nearest the ground due to rising damp etc….and incidentally chalk pastels (sprayed with fixative when finished) are great fun to use on bricks partly because it’s all matt/flat & partly because it never gets into the mortar channels, or if it does it can be just brushed away with a dry brush 
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I know the bricks are not perfect yet. Since the structure will be handles rather often and I find that the (acrylic) paint comes off much too easy, I did not go deeper than laying on a base layer of paint… Which was a challenge on its own, as I bought a package of Juweela bricks, of which I had to match the color… I know they are too dark, butI hope to get trid of that by some dry brushing… And indeed will pick out some brick to create some variety… Oh, and I put on a coat of matt (?) humbrol varnish…
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Thanks Robin 
Did you use a primer? Tamiya has a rattle can hull red primer as I recall. Are own Ken Abrams did a wood grain how to. I am sure something similar with different reds and burnt umber oil wash would help break it up. Erik aka dioworks did a brink demo on here also. Grout color might be difficult at this point.
Either way I do like where this is going.
No I didn’t prime it, as I thought that the plaster would give enough for the paint to hold on to…
Maybe that has been a mistake 
Nice start on the window/brickwork .
Most store bought bricks are pre colored plaster with the color added to the slop before setting . [ or plaster derivative ] .
They are porous . Try a sloppy light wash of one/two shades darker color than the pre made brick color .
I’ve used the Juweela pre/mades , and the above suggestion works .
When any plaster sets it has different densities so the wash will absorb lighter or darker on the porous bricks , white plaster or pre/colored .
This can’t be done if you seal/coat/prime the bricks first , that negates the plaster absorbing the wash colors . Primed bricks can still be washed but I find it’s easier to wash them raw , you get some interesting natural color patterns .
Thanks Glenn… I think it will be quite messy, washes on the Juweela bricks and ground pastels on the walls… I love it 
See where this will go to … But I think I will put the building in place, so I don’t need to handle it anymore…
I only need to know the color of the pipe that leads to the chimney. I supposed they were not galvanized but painted at that time?
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Looking really good man! I love bricks:) /Erik
Thanks Erik…
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Window number 2 (or what is left of it) is in place.
And, no, I didn’t do anything about the brickwork yet…
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Hi Erwin,
The windows look good, I really like the ‘frosted’ glass appearance, 
.
Cheers, 
,
G
Cheers… it is really only tracing paper sandwiched between 2 frames made of thin evergreen rod. Since those windows were often made out of casting iron, I did not used any bend parts, as this does not bend, but breaks…
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Clever idea using tracing paper Erwin, wouldn’t have crossed my mind to do that, it’s very effective solution my friend, .
G
I used the stuff when I was a student, so I was already aware of it’s properties and knew it was very usable for this…
I also used it in an earlier dio:
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Good thinking Erwin , I’ll have to remember that …