Radek, very frustrating.
Always glue the clear parts with dedicated clear parts glue. I used an old revell/Testors glue. I think AK-Interactive just released a new one, although I have not used it yet.
I have used AK-Interactive’s Glass coat. This is very useful when I scratch my clear parts removing leaked paint. I is good for removing dull marks and restore the shine. might help protect the glazing as well.
Gauzy Agent Glass coat
So does it repair /hide minor scratches Jesper, like when you mentioned about removing over spill paint etc ?
Yes, it is not magic, but makes a great difference.
Example: the S-199 I am working on right now. It had a nasty mark from the sprue connection right on the lower edge of the front canopy. Impossible to avoid when cutting the glazing from the sprue. I have given it some of the glass coat. The indent from the sprue connection is still there - the glass coat does not fill the small gap. But it does remove the fussiness of the glazing. I tried to get pictures before and after, but difficult.
Before:
After:
Thanks Jesper… That is a noticeable difference for sure …might get some of that now 
Thanks Jesper, this build doesn’t give up on screwing me 
I don’t use any “heavy duty” cements like CA or long drying ones. In this case it was Tamiya’s extra thin, but I usually stick canopies with something like Revell Contacta Clear . I checked my previous photos and also some video recording I made for testing my new camera and I’m pretty sure now that all this fogging happened due to thinners vaporisation - either new thinner I used for paints or thinner for oil washes…
Oh, I will have to check this! Some people gave me advice to simply dip clear parts in Pledge/Future or this Gauzy Agent and let it dry hard before making any build steps to canopy. Interesting suggestion, especially that with these Pledge/Future stuff you never know which one to use and here you have one -exact product .
It makes big difference, especially that this side window is very tight spot, so approaching it with some polishing paste and trying to do something without damaging paint on frame would be impossible. Great recovery!
Glad to share if it can help out on future builds.
The instructions on the Gauzy Glass coat states to dip the entire clear part in the solution and let it dry. I guess it is basically a professional modeling version of future/clear. That said I have never used it like that. Only to touch up scratches etc.
its a great faded black tone though. really looks like the real deal
I am calling this one done. Quite satisfied with the end result although the kit lacks some detail here and there due to the age. Also some parts are overly thick - especially the racks.
Looking forward to see some great builds towards the finish line. 
Really nice Jesper… Great finish. The dust and dirt weathering really tones back the base colour for a very authentic look. Stowage is nicely balanced as well…
Great job
My congrats, too! Excellent work, Jesper! 
Peter 
P.S. I hope I get myself to put the decals on my RC-135 soon now… 
Spectacular finish Jesper! Outstanding weathering and excellent detailing. I like the case of Pepsi. Nice touch.
Lovely looking vehicle, in fact brilliantly done.
Your attention to the details and execution of the kit is fabulous.
BTW it will be more likely for an IDF vehicle to crry Coke Cola case and not Pepsi
Nice Jesper. Your finished 113, even more, makes me want to get my second IDF vehicle. Yep. Thank you for building this subject.
Mike
So, the old saying goes: “Make a pig’s ear into a silk purse.” Well my friends, I reversed that!! Look at my “pig’s ear!” LOL!!
Now then, currently it’s a butt-ugly pig’s ear. However, that’ll change once the pigment dries. I didn’t use a fixer, just water. A finger tip and cotton ear bud (or three) will greatly tone down the fugly. The roof looked kind of like the rest of the vehicle until I used the aforementioned to clean things up. The non-visible side had the same done, started looking pretty decent, then I redid some of the spots. So, next post, hopefully, it’ll be proper.
Gawd, I still have to make the hooch and add the lights. 10 day? Oy…
Mike
Great finish, Jesper. Nice weathering with all dust, streaks and stuff, also all this packages and stowage around catches eyes.
The M577 looks great so far. Can’t wait to see it finished.
Okay, so not a “silk purse,” but a leather jacket maybe? 
Reminiscent of just a short jaunt down the tank trails of Grafenwoehr in the summer. Short jaunt, lol.
I need to “dust up” the fuel cans and the rubber on the road wheels though.
Mike
That dust looks perfect now Mike. Excellent work!
Thanks for all the comments on my Zelda, guys! Much appreciated!
I have an Israeli friend at work that loves models, but does not build himself. I will give it as a gift to him on Monday. I trust he will like it.
