Mack DM800 Water Truck

Hi Tim, the software is proprietary and you have to be online to use it. I do the design work in Affinity Designer and then import the final image as a JPEG. The software (Cricut Design Space) then converts it to a cut file.

It apparently recognises .dxf files, but I have had little success getting files saved as .dxf to work. The fundamental thing about Design Space is that it is raster/pixel based, not vector/paths based. It recognises a shape and cuts that out.

I don’t really see any benefit in having the baffles in cardboard. I want the strength glued styrene will give me.

I’ll keep you posted

Graeme.

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Great stuff Graeme! Definitely adding another dimension to the hobby using the Cricut for master templates, really neat work.

I can’t wait to see the results when yoiu transfer the patterns across to styrene sheets. What thickness are you planning to use for the tank?

Cheers, D

Thanks for the info on the Cricut stuff. Sure, the styrene will give more strength; the baffles looks great in cardboard! Looking forward to more posts!

Tim

OK. I’m calling the mockup a winner! Looks like it’s going to fit together

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I didn’t have any 0.5mm styrene, so I used some 0.75mm sheet. I adjusted the file accordingly and ran it through. It did not cut all the way through, but it was about 90%. This is plenty to bend and snap most parts out. The internal shapes were a bit trick to snap out, so I’m leaving them in where they won’t be seen. A quick clean-up of the edges and I can start gluing!

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Lookin’ good!

Tim

O.K. So … Plan A has not worked. The 0.75 mm styrene distorted quite a bit and my wayward gluing meant that when I went to put the tank sides on, they were bowed. I think I have way over-engineered this. Ah well, it is a good exercise in the finding out the limitations of cutting with the Cricut. I am not sure now just how useful it will be.

Plan B: Make a basic box out of 1.0 mm styrene. Use some basic shapes and a shallow cut on the Cricut, and then cut them out by hand. This might seem like a complicated way to make rectangles, but they are all very accurate. Something I have huge trouble with when measuring and cutting myself.

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Seems strange the paper worked but the plastic didn’t. Glad your keeping at it.

I figure it is mainly because the Cricut machine is designed to cut cardboard, and cardboard does not tend tend to bow like styrene does. Bear in mind that the machine made a bunch of cutting passes on one side of a styrene sheet, with considerable force. With the lighter cut, the styrene sheet stayed flat.

Gotcha. It seems maybe the thickness might come into play. At least this thread suggests thinner is better or more passes.

Use the Cricut only to make scoring marks and then cut/saw/file to shape?

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Yes. That retains the accuracy without distorting the plastic.

I think this is working much better. Internal bracing has been added AFTER the ends and sides were added and squared. Lengths of sprue added to the inside corners to add more strength.

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Lower side panels on, too. There is still some minor distortion, but I can live with that. It won’t be noticeable once it is all together.

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I scratched up the PTO drive water pump, using an aircraft wheel and a drive shaft from a car along with some styrene bits and bobs.

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I am much happier with the way this tank is coming togethaer.

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Details are looking great. Keep it up.

So, I am calling the construction of the water tank done. I am quite happy with the result so far, nice and square and strong. Everything fits where t should and the plumbing lines up with the pump and chassis. Happy days!

Now to get on with the painting and weathering!

I’ll be using Mission Models paints, their construction colours series.

See you soon.

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That looks great.

Lovely work Graeme, I can’t wait to see this with some colour splashed on!

Cheers, D