If the box art on the panzerart tracks reflects what’s in the box you’ve got the wrong tracks for a T72.
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Progress today, hull mostly done with just the convoy/position lights and light guards to do and the splash guard at the front but two holes for the tow rope needed filling first as the kit tow rope will not be used. Rear and engine deck awaiting the Eduard set. Turret top and bottom glued together and filler added around the joint, wheels assembled all waiting for a date with primer and the spray booth.
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The Masterclub set is the correct type, the Panzerart tracks were indeed fitted to T-55 & 62 but never the T-72. It was the T-72 RMSh type that was retrofitted to T-54,55, and 62 .
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Hello betheyn, I read your construction report and have to say something to you because I built this model too. This kit is not as easy to build as you imagine. The problem is the lower part to the upper part. If you put the two parts together and you know the original pictures of the vehicle, you will notice that the upper part is much too far back to the lower part. It is about 5mm. The distance from the idler wheel to the track cover is also too small, so that the track hardly fits through. Trumpeter did a bad job here. Changing this is a challenge. Take a look at the original pictures or in my post about the ZIL-131 2T7, you can see it there. I changed it on my kit. All you need to do is draw a line from the side flaps down to the undercarriage and you will see the difference straight away. But that is your decision. Have fun building it, I will follow it.
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Can I do the An-225 since it was made when the Soviet Union was around?
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“The first flight was made on December 21, 1988” - this is clearly a Soviet aircraft.
I would be very interested to see the assembly of such a model!
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Ok ill do revells an-225 in 1/144 scale, have been meaning to do something with that. Now I can!
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Progress! Wow two days in a row at the bench for me is a record for many months, however back to work tomorrow so no more progress after today for a while.
Any way the Eduard PE arrived and the grills were fitted, main work has been around the turret. Looking at the commander figure that comes with the kit, would he be suitable for an East German tank commander?
On to the tracks, how do you guys do these individual links? Two track links required 8 holes drilled two pins fitted and lost three! That’s are far as I got just two links done, and a bag of links staring me down.
Oh the hull is now on a date with Mr. Surfacer black primer in the spray booth.
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The Masterclub links needed drilling out ? I thought they had a good reputation for quality.
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If that’s the case , maybe a solution ? TRACK-LINK / Forums / Modelling / Construction / MasterClub workable track -
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That looks amazing Angel. Fantastic work mate 
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Unless I was very unlucky and the first two I picked up happened to be one’s that were flashed over and the rest are ok, then yes the holes are there but they need to be opened up. As in the link you posted they also don’t quite line up either so you drill them out 4 times as I don’t have a drill bit long enough to go right through in one go so have to drill from both sides. Then when you put the links together the hole doesn’t line up either so you have to pass the drill bit through again, put a pin in each side without dropping them then a dab of superglue to hold the pin in. Easy 
Think I’ll be looking for another option.
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excellent
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Nice. I’m planning to build this also. I can’t wait to get started, but I need to get some half-finished stuff off my table.
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Great choice on the Flagon. I have one of those kits someplace and would like to get it built sometime.
The Yak 25 has long been an interest of mine since Revell put one out back in the 1950s. I built it as a kid and would like to build a modern kit. How do I follow your build log?
Paul
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What was amiss with the trumpeter kits? I have a couple of them around someplace that I have not gotten to yet.
Paul
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Hi Paul,
The Trumpeter B-4 kit is difficult. It has a lot of strange engineering choices. The worst part though is the ejector pin marks. There are many, many of them on the outside visible surfaces of the model. Filling and sanding them means replacing about 300 rivets. Lots of tedious work.
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